• Welcome to the new B.I.R.D. Forum. Please be sure to read the "New Member / New Registered ? Please Read" thread in the Coffee Shop. This contains some important information. To become a full member ( £5.90 a year ) simply click on your user name near the top on the right I hope you enjoy the new site ................ Jaws ( John )

Mis-firing???

petrosc

Registered User
NEW ONE TO ME

Trying bits and pieces.

I have started the bike up (unorthodox method of coarse).
It worked perfectly well for 5 minutes i.e. smooth as anything, no missing, sounded just like there was nothing wrong and then......

running as rough as anything, smell of petrol, and loads of blue smoke....wtf

Felt the 4 down pipes and they were all very hot....all cylinders working!!!!!!

Any ideas why this is happening John?

What can I do with the alarm/immobiliser mate?

:bang:
 

andyBeaker

Moderator
Staff member
Moderator
Club Sponsor
Trying bits and pieces.

I have started the bike up (unorthodox method of coarse).
It worked perfectly well for 5 minutes i.e. smooth as anything, no missing, sounded just like there was nothing wrong and then......

running as rough as anything, smell of petrol, and loads of blue smoke....wtf

Felt the 4 down pipes and they were all very hot....all cylinders working!!!!!!

Any ideas why this is happening John?

What can I do with the alarm/immobiliser mate?

:bang:

Not wishing to interupt your intercourse with HIM (aka JAWS), blue smoke suggests oil being burnt in cylinders. Seem to remember a thread about something similar - turned out to be a missing seal on a bit of kit that was only fitted to non UK bikes to help with emissions. Any idea what spec your bird is?? Anyone remember the detail of the thread??

Smell of petrol suggests, at the risk of stating the obvious, unburnt fuel. which could either be fuel flooding cylinder(s) OR fuel not igniting properly - which MAY be because of oil in cylinders. Whip the plugs out and see if they are oily??

The good news is that valve/cylinder damage is pretty much unheard of on the Bird.

Sorry, not a 'this is the solution' thread, just the ramblings of someone who might just set someone more informed off on the course to solve the issue.
 

petrosc

Registered User
Thanks Andy for the input

Not wishing to interupt your intercourse with HIM (aka JAWS), blue smoke suggests oil being burnt in cylinders. Seem to remember a thread about something similar - turned out to be a missing seal on a bit of kit that was only fitted to non UK bikes to help with emissions. Any idea what spec your bird is?? Anyone remember the detail of the thread??

Smell of petrol suggests, at the risk of stating the obvious, unburnt fuel. which could either be fuel flooding cylinder(s) OR fuel not igniting properly - which MAY be because of oil in cylinders. Whip the plugs out and see if they are oily??

The good news is that valve/cylinder damage is pretty much unheard of on the Bird.

Sorry, not a 'this is the solution' thread, just the ramblings of someone who might just set someone more informed off on the course to solve the issue.


You ve made me think......but it did not do this from the beginning. It went on for more than 5 minutes , running so well I thought it was all cured.

When I replaced the plugs they were absolutely clean and really I shouldn't have changed them. I have kept them.

I found the following at a previous thread and I wonder:

"banger
Users Awaiting Email Confirmation Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Warrington
Posts: 39
Thanks: 1
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts

Missing Bird Cured

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Problem cured, was a diaphram within the fuel injection allowing petrol to be sent flooding 2 cylinders, apparently the part was only used on the XX1 and 2 and a newer version fitted afterwards, only cost £25 to get the newer version. "


ANY COMMENTS ABOUT THIS? DIAPHRAM AND FI? WTF

Please help, becoming desperate now


:xm
 
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N

Nursey61

Guest
Did you ever get round to checking the TPS?

Mine caused massive overfuelling at tickover, real bad smell of unburnt fuel, smoke and uneven tickover.

The mechanic who sussed it said it was prob fueling for 4-5ooorpm at tickover with the ecu trying to fight this, hence the smell of fuel , etc.

Does it run smoother at 5000+ rpm? Mine did, so on runs through Wales it was pretty ok. Urban riding was terrible, approx 80 miles to reserve from a full tank before i took it off the road.

Anyway, good luck mate, hope you get sorted soon.
 

petrosc

Registered User
TPS

Did you ever get round to checking the TPS?

Mine caused massive overfuelling at tickover, real bad smell of unburnt fuel, smoke and uneven tickover.

The mechanic who sussed it said it was prob fueling for 4-5ooorpm at tickover with the ecu trying to fight this, hence the smell of fuel , etc.

Does it run smoother at 5000+ rpm? Mine did, so on runs through Wales it was pretty ok. Urban riding was terrible, approx 80 miles to reserve from a full tank before i took it off the road.

Anyway, good luck mate, hope you get sorted soon.

Was your bike running rough?????Like turning it on/off at any given speed?
Rough tickover and then dying on you?

I take its the throttle positioning sensor?
Where is it?
How do I check this?
Is there a given procedure or do you replace it with a new one?

Thanks Nursey for the interest shown, I hope it gets sorted soon myself. The problem is that if you have some missaps like I have its difficult to sort out in England. People are more knowledgable and more proffesional. Here in Greece its god help you. They think they know everything but they dont, catch my drift.....things happen by accident here.:xm

Regards
 
N

Nursey61

Guest
Hi,

Yes TPS: Throttle Position Sensor.

I've got to admit it took for ever to diagnose over here too, from what I can tell it can happen but not often enough for people to look for.

Yes, mine ran like a sack of shit, would struggle with tickover, missing and coughing. It would run smoother at 3000rpm but this rose as the problem got worse, until it wouldn't smooth out till 5000 after a few weeks.

There isn't a way of testing it as far as i know (although the workshop manual may say otherwise if you have something clever and Hondaish).

A throttle position sensor (TPS) is a sensor used to monitor the position of the throttle in an internal combustion engine. The sensor is usually located on the butterfly spindle so that it can directly monitor the position of the throttle valve butterfly.
The sensor is usually a potentiometer, and therefore provides a variable resistance dependent upon the position of the valve (and hence throttle position).
The sensor signal is used by the engine control unit (ECU) as an input to its control system. The ignition timing and fuel injection timing (and potentially other parameters) are altered depending upon the position of the throttle, and also depending on the rate of change of that position. For example, in fuel injected engines, in order to avoid stalling, extra fuel may be injected if the throttle is opened rapidly.

From this that I robbed from WIKI, if it sends a wrong signal to the ecu, all sorts of bollox can happen to your feuling.

They did a gas analysis on mine which which showed the levels of burnt and unburnt gasses, after they had checked everything else as being fine it left the TPS as the only culprit.

It's the electrical thingy that sits below the fuel rail on the right side of the bike. I think the part as a new spare is hideously expensive, but the one they sourced from a breakers has worked fine for the last few years.
As far as I know they are non repairable, so a replacement is the only answer.

As with everything, this may not be the answer but it's worth a good look.

I'm off to get the nail out my back tyre, it never ends.....

Good luck mate

Mark
 

petrosc

Registered User
I think I ll disconnect it, blow it with air, reconnect it and see what happens.
I suppose its worth it. The next move is to try and locate one!!!!!

Thanks again Mark
 
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Jaws

Corporal CockUp
Staff member
Moderator
Club Sponsor
Sorry Pete,
been just a tad busy of late prepping for the run down your way

Sorry to here the FPR did not cure it, but gotta go with Nursey now as the TPS is about all that is left !!
 

petrosc

Registered User
Thanks John

I will try to locate it and do something with it, what I dont know.

Where do I get one from mate? Is there a part number for this?

Help

Regards
 
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Oldbull

Registered User
Pete, check part numbers at david silvers, Im sure they are the same as the blades, cbr6 etc. will increase chances of a second hand one...

As Taffy got one ??

good luck , feeling for you pal
 

Jaws

Corporal CockUp
Staff member
Moderator
Club Sponsor
I seem to remember all you can do is contact breakers yards and hope they do not realise it is part of the injector bodies and not available from Honda as a stand alone part !! ( I loaned my spare one to someone ( who used to be a member on here )
They very kindly fitted it, sent back their duff old one and insisted they had not swapped em over..

So I am afraid I cannot help mate
 

petrosc

Registered User
David Silvers??

Pete, check part numbers at david silvers, Im sure they are the same as the blades, cbr6 etc. will increase chances of a second hand one...

As Taffy got one ??

good luck , feeling for you pal

Thanks for the interest mate, its been a long time/money/frustration and stress and I am getting nowhere.

Sorry mate, who is that? David Silvers?? s0s:

I will ask Taffy
 
N

Nursey61

Guest
TPS

Hi,

Forgot about the injector bodies. The mechanic managed to convince them to split it from the injector bodies, so got it pretty cheap ?20-30.

There's one on ebay for ?34.99 for the sensor only. May be worth a gander.
 

petrosc

Registered User
TPS

Is this it in the picture?

profile.php


The writing says

JT4LF
9081S

IS THIS IT?
 

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Jaws

Corporal CockUp
Staff member
Moderator
Club Sponsor
If it IS then it is not a TPS in the picture.. looks more like an atmospheric ressue sensor
 

petrosc

Registered User
ECU, ECM

No its not fixed yet.....:violin:

Everything points to wards the ECU/M, unfortunately.....but I think ok, wtf,
this time it needs to be the item that will sort things out for the bike.

Too much money spent on it for reasons I cannot explain.....

I have 4 spark plugs that do not look bad to me! Should I throw away?
I have a battery thats good!
Oil changed, no problem, thats ok
Oil and air filter changed, ok
Fuel pressure regulator changed, I have a good one
I have coils and leads

If I can help anybody, let me know.

Now, they say that the ECU/M can be repaired, is that right?
Regards
Peter
 

silverfox.xx

quocunque jeceris stabit
Ask Taffy if he has one.

Sorry to hear you still have problems.

I've not trawled through the whole thread but do you get any fault codes?
 

petrosc

Registered User
Taffy

Ask Taffy if he has one.

Sorry to hear you still have problems.

I've not trawled through the whole thread but do you get any fault codes?

Hi matey

I have been in touch with Taffy via email and he is sending me one (MAT E02)

If it solves the problems I will keep it and pay him for it (we ve agreed a price)

Taffy is a gent and I have known him for years. He did my present wheels, red and silver, fantastic job and XX back light is his as well. We ve been some ride outs together too. Me and San have stayed at his house before and I hope he and Ros will come to us , one day.

Now then, if the unit on my bike is fulty, can it be repaired?

Fault codes...long break flash, long break flash, long break flash something to do with altitude???????

8ree! I just want to ride my bike

Regards
 
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silverfox.xx

quocunque jeceris stabit
Fault codes...long break flash, long break flash, long break flash something to do with altitude???????

8ree! I just want to ride my bike

Regards

Barometric sensor, but I guess Taff's talked that one through. By all accounts it'll cost more to repair than replace via Taff. Note that if you do get it repaired it may still not work, and the eprom memory will only retain the key chips code for about 18 months so would need fitting to a bike on a annual basis to allow you to keep it as a spare.

Me' if the replacement works, chuck the old one.
 
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