• Welcome to the new B.I.R.D. Forum. Please be sure to read the "New Member / New Registered ? Please Read" thread in the Coffee Shop. This contains some important information. To become a full member ( £5.90 a year ) simply click on your user name near the top on the right I hope you enjoy the new site ................ Jaws ( John )

Voltage monitoring LED

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clyvecat

Guest
Well done Silverfox

silverfox.xx said:
Alternator or rectifryer fault?
Mine also gave indication that the battery was weak, ignition on, engine off it used to create red flash red, then it went to red x 3 flashes, battery was charged ok, so I check the battery and it was weak under load, changed the battery over winter and all's well again. Saved blowing up the alternator or rect.
Click to expand...

You win the prize for this one - it was the battery for me too!
 
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PJbiker

Guest
Low voltage under load

clyvecat said:
You win the prize for this one - it was the battery for me too!
Click to expand...

'97 Carb. Finally got round to buying a voltage LED monitor after watching for months and fitted it last night. I've never had a problem with starting and occasionally hook up to a trickle charger (but not permanently).
Anyway, went for a short ride and found all green with the lights switched off but voltage drops and LED flashes red with lights on.

The other thing, my oxford heated grips have never worked properly and I can see now, they work when the LED is green, until the voltage drops then cut off.

I bought bike last summer and there's no record of it having a new battery so I'd guess I should start with changing that? The LED never shows an overcharge even at 8K so the reg/rec should be OK?

What battery? from Jaws I guess?
 
silverfox.xx

silverfox.xx

quocunque jeceris stabit
Jaws ok for battery. But it sounds Like you may also have a weak charging issue. I'm running a carb alternator on an injection bike. Lights on when ticker vm led stays green. Light and indicators, brings amber, lights on and brake light and indicator it will flash red changing to amber in between indicator flashes. Lights heated grips and it flashes red.
 
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ceoils

Registered User
I see Busters are doing a 12 month guarantee on regulators (carb) on fleabay
Is interesting as you could easily go through a couple sorting out your system
item 270886104214
I know I would not sent one back to john if I blew it unless he could pass it on ))
 
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the_sad_punk

Registered User
No one fitting a mosfet rec reg? They dont get as hot as shunt ones, last longer (not heard of a single one failing yet), and deliver more constant voltage.
Loads of heads fitting them to older bikes. Newer r1's and blades, cbr6's have them.

Voltmeters are good ideas but not all were created equal.

bb-1.jpg

Shows realtime voltage when the bike is on, also when off.

Shows your battery cranking health (CCA) as a %, and graphically shows any loss of same since last start.

Only draws 3ma so wont drain your battery.

Waterproof, designed for bikes.

Sounds an alarm well in advance of any battery condition that may result in non start.
 
Wolfie

Wolfie

Is a lunp
They don't get so hot because they offer a lower resistance, thus they are allow more current though putting the rest of the system in danger of over load. Triumph forum had a test done where it put though an extra 10% current.shunts resistance is built in as a protection it's what the testers came to the conclusion. Can't find the test now as it was a while ago I read it. But it was too much for the triumph.
 
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Trumpet

Guest
Bxxllox. The newer MOSFET Shunt regulators have a lower forward resistance when in shunt mode, so are more efficient and don't get as hot. If there was an issue with them how come Triumph are now fitting them as standard ? They'll even sell you an adapter loom. I reckon you dreamt it. 8rfl@
 
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the_sad_punk

Registered User
Wolfie said:
They don't get so hot because they offer a lower resistance, thus they are allow more current though putting the rest of the system in danger of over load. Triumph forum had a test done where it put though an extra 10% current.shunts resistance is built in as a protection it's what the testers came to the conclusion. Can't find the test now as it was a while ago I read it. But it was too much for the triumph.
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Mmm k with the greatest of respect n all that i call jive.
They deliver a more constant voltage usually 14.2 to 14.4volts irrespective of rpm. They dont even need a volt sensing wire to do this they are so constant. They dont boil and die either.
The turumpet lads were at the forefront transplanting these.
Theres many cottage industries like eastern beaver and ricks selling kits to retro fit these units to many many bikes so good are they.
stanleyshandiwork.jpg

Fitting one to the other machine at the mo actually and will do likewise on the bird as shes on her second rr and is showing spikes up to 14.9 v just like my last shunt oem one did.
 
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the_sad_punk

Registered User
Jaws if yer reading this theres a demand over this side of the pond for them battery bugs. Ive three and am looking for a fourth. Know a fair few heads who would buy some too.
The states shipping is expensive and customs are ever waiting, a niche there for a dude who can import a box of em..?
 
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CBRDEAN0

Registered User
Wolfie said:
They don't get so hot because they offer a lower resistance, thus they are allow more current though putting the rest of the system in danger of over load. Triumph forum had a test done where it put though an extra 10% current.shunts resistance is built in as a protection it's what the testers came to the conclusion. Can't find the test now as it was a while ago I read it. But it was too much for the triumph.
Click to expand...

They can pass an extra 10% current I agree but only if the battery is asking for it.

The cooler running is because they switch off rather than dumping the excess to ground.

The switching off gives the generator less work so it will last longer.
A shunt r/r has the generator working all of the time.

I fitted a MOSFET r/r to my 97 bird and have never looked back. Batteries are lasting longer, It charges at tickover ( 1100rpm ) and maintains good voltage with low beam, main beam, indicators and the cooling fan running.
 
Wolfie

Wolfie

Is a lunp
CBRDEAN0 said:
They can pass an extra 10% current I agree but only if the battery is asking for it.

The cooler running is because they switch off rather than dumping the excess to ground.

The switching off gives the generator less work so it will last longer.
A shunt r/r has the generator working all of the time.

I fitted a MOSFET r/r to my 97 bird and have never looked back. Batteries are lasting longer, It charges at tickover ( 1100rpm ) and maintains good voltage with low beam, main beam, indicators and the cooling fan running.
Click to expand...

as said before dont care, as i dont need one. just passing on what i read.

ps my bird charges at tickover as well reg rec is about 4yrs old and brought from john.
 
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Birdy_Blue

Guest
CBRDEAN0 said:
They can pass an extra 10% current I agree but only if the battery is asking for it.

The cooler running is because they switch off rather than dumping the excess to ground.

The switching off gives the generator less work so it will last longer.
A shunt r/r has the generator working all of the time.

I fitted a MOSFET r/r to my 97 bird and have never looked back. Batteries are lasting longer, It charges at tickover ( 1100rpm ) and maintains good voltage with low beam, main beam, indicators and the cooling fan running.
Click to expand...

N E chance of some pics with it on the bike and where you got it from please?
 
Wolfie

Wolfie

Is a lunp
that battery bug does look the part though.

Much better than the crap led lights thing , if i wanted to ride a disco i would of brought one, feckin lights here there and everywhere, all are a distraction when riding.
 
Rheumatoid

Rheumatoid

B.I.R.D Intellectual
Wolfie said:
that battery bug does look the part though.

Much better than the crap led lights thing , if i wanted to ride a disco i would of brought one, feckin lights here there and everywhere, all are a distraction when riding.
Click to expand...

yep, ?20 on the flea. not bad
 
P

PJbiker

Guest
PJbiker said:
'97 Carb. Finally got round to buying a voltage LED monitor after watching for months and fitted it last night. I've never had a problem with starting and occasionally hook up to a trickle charger (but not permanently).
Anyway, went for a short ride and found all green with the lights switched off but voltage drops and LED flashes red with lights on.

The other thing, my oxford heated grips have never worked properly and I can see now, they work when the LED is green, until the voltage drops then cut off.

I bought bike last summer and there's no record of it having a new battery so I'd guess I should start with changing that? The LED never shows an overcharge even at 8K so the reg/rec should be OK?

What battery? from Jaws I guess?
Click to expand...

OK, so I changed the battery which is definitely better than the old one. Still showing low voltage under load but definitely no over charging. Do I start with the generator stator or reg/rec? I guess you get over voltage if its the reg-rec? :dunno:
 
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