Engine firing, engine stops...

[Centaur]

Bumps fine......

Also been told that.

Annoyance is that it bumps fine.. would have thought it would kill the +12v to coils if it was "active"

You didn't tell us that! So, not the tilt switch.

So, your bike starts fine when it is bumped but will not start on the starter motor although it is priming and turning over fast?

 

[Centaur]

I've now managed to source a multimeter so off shortly to collect it. I have had the rear cowling off and can see that the reg/rec is not a finned type and so can only presume that it is the original fitment. I've also checked all fuses, which are fine.

Standby! Standby!

Standing by!:-0)

 

[Paddy.]

Yes Centaur, sorry, still in agony from pushing the blimp home!

Basically.

Bumped initially, ran for ~3 miles or so. Died slowly, lights dimmed, clocks stopped etc.

New battery, it turns over fast, primes, immobiliser light comes on green and goes off after 2 seconds, will still bump. No FI codes stored, all showing as hunky dory.

Hopefully that helps?

 

[Centaur]

Yes Paddy...it helps!

When you bump start it runs sweetly with no problems?

 

[Centaur]

Where are you Paddy?

Please confirm the bike runs fine with the new battery after a bump start.

 

[Nige F]

Must be the day for it...mine did exactly the same yesterday too....hopefully going to be the reg/rectifier....

 

[Centaur]

I hope you have a meter Nige! 8rfl@

 

[Boggymarsh]

I've got a meter... now just got to sus things out.

How coincidently that many of us are suffering this problem... have we suffers some sort of electronic attack?

 

[Paddy.]

Bumps with old battery when charged, bumps with new battery also.

When I first bumped on journey home, it idled ~2000rpm then gradually went down to a tickle over 1200. Smooth running and immense power, running as it should.

It then became very choppy on the throttle, anything over 1/2 throttle made the bike stutter and lose power. Openings kept getting smaller and smaller until it finally died.

 

[Centaur]

Paddy first.

From what happened Paddy, I believe either your reg/rec or alternator are shagged. The reason the first battery went poof was because it was not being charged.
The new battery has enough power to start and run the bike when it is bumped but not enough power to give a good spark when it has to turn over the engine with the starter motor.

You need to get a meter to be sure exactly what is wrong.

I would not go for the meter on the bike! :-0)

 

[Centaur]

Hi Boggy.

With the meter set to 20v DC what is the reading across the battery?

 

[Paddy.]

Not running 12.9v, running I'll have to confirm when I get home.

I'll definitely check stator output but reg/rec is a new one, fitted last Saturday @tu*

 

[Centaur]

Hi Paddy.

I'd like to know what the voltage across the battery drops to when you are turning it over.

Another little surprise in that you have just fitted a new reg/rec! lol

Anything else new?

 

[Paddy.]

:-0)

I've had it about... 12 hours now.

I've obviously sent message to guy I bought it off whos said "this guy had reg/rec fitted saturday" and gave me the number to check with him, but reg rec is brand new, checked last night

 

[Centaur]

Not a boring 12 hours. 8rfl@ Post again, on a new thread, when you can check voltages.:-0)

 

[Boggymarsh]

With the meter set to 20v DC what is the reading across the battery?

Bill, I've got the meter but yet to investigate - I've had to go shopping and keep Mrs Boggy company this afternoon but if I get up early tomorrow morning I should be able to have a play. The meter I've got only has AC and DC settings for voltage checks but apparently has continuity and some other settings. My uncle, a very experienced electrical engineer (40 odd years playing with Dungeness A nuclear power station) says this will do the job nicely.

 

[Centaur]

Your uncle is a wise man, Boggy.

AC and DC voltage is generally all you need, Boggy. Resistance checks can be handy to confirm that two wires are joined or that a wire is joined to where you expect it to be but the actual readings shown are so inaccurate on a cheap meter as to be meaningless. God bless an AVO 9 as Jaws would say!

I'll be about from 8am if you want to talk.

Petros and I are skyping from 11 am.

Still waiting to hear from Paddy.

What an exciting life I lead! 8rfl@

 

[Jono]

Boggy, quick one, your symptoms sound exactly the same as happened to my 2004 Fi coming home from France a while ago. It was reg/rec, I also replaced the battery at the same time.
I have got a '97 Bird now so will watch the result with interest @tu*

 

[Centaur]

Posted elsewhere Jono.

Originally Posted by Nige F View Post
Am not really sure what's gone to be honest....had the usual lose of speedo and rev counter followed by lights etc so was guessing it was the regulator that's packed as I had exactly the same happen in my last Blackbird.....

These are generic symptoms of reducing voltage which could be caused by alternator, reg/rec or battery failure so until you get in there with a meter you won't know which. Failure of any one of them CAN shag the other two so often it is chicken or egg.

This is why the wise on here have a led device which warns that the voltage is dropping so action can be taken to minimise the eventual damage.

The blackbird engine may be bulletproof but the electrics are not. The only upside is that it helps to fund Jaws' trips abroad to the sun.
__________________

 

[Boggymarsh]

Well, I've had five minutes to myself and long enough to put the meter across the battery terminals. With the meter set to DC (wavy line) all I'm getting is a reading of 0.001v. I have had the battery on a trickle charge and when this was first plugged in the meter showed 0.05v. Over a period of an hour the reading went back to 0.001v, so I think it's a safe conclusion to say it's fooked!
:-(