Big electrical problem

[Jaws]

Oh.. hang on a sec.

Is the clock still working or has it reset ( and keeps resetting every time you turn the ignition off ) ??

 

[mikefrew]

Clock is still working and not resetting, hopefully that's a good thing lol

 

[andyBeaker]

I always think it is easy to start chasing red herrings when something goes wrong straight after a job has been done - but in this case provided you have tried starting with a fully charged battery and the reg/rec disconnected from the loom end then the reg/rec change seems OK.

Not something that has happened on either of my Birds, but a corroded wire/connection on the ignition barrel is not uncommon........maybe?? Anyone??:dunno::dunno:

 

[andyBeaker]

The gist of it is the only thing electrical that works is oil and neutral light and starter motor.
I fitted a new reg rec plug today as I had used spade connectors until I got one after replacing reg rec, all worked fine before but after fitting went to start and seemed to run on 1 cylinder for a couple seconds then die, tried again started ok for a few seconds then stopped and now just turns with no start, headlights, indicators, horn, side stand light, all not working, I have checked all the fuses I can find and am now stumped.

Thinking about this a bit more - every (!!) reg/rec I have had has come with plugs on ready to plug and play.......... why are spade terminals being used? Or are you talking about the generator plug that foes to the plug on the reg/rec?

 

[mikefrew]

When I got my new reg rec the plug on the loom was melted and a new plug was going to take a while to source if I didn't want to pay silly money so I improvised and used insulated spade connectors soldered onto the whites and plugged in, worked without fault for about a year till I found the plug today and decided to fit it

 

[Jaws]

Clock is still working and not resetting, hopefully that's a good thing lol

Hmmm Ok.. well that is one theory gone then.. I really MUST try and find the wiring maps !!

 

[57grant]

Sounds like it may be worth connecting up a known good spare Ignition barel

It can be done without fitting it, it just eliminates it from the possibilities. I may have a spare one that I could post to you, will look in garage later today

if not Taffy or e bay or MPS may have one

Good luck

Grant 07876251906

 

[mikeyw64]

undo the work you did the other day as you may have unwittingly made an error/induced a fault

 

[mikefrew]

Would another ignition barrel make a difference to other electrical items not working? I could understand the non starting being sorted but not the other stuff, not much to undo all I did was connect red and white on bike to red on new plug, green to green, and 3 yellows to 3 yellows but will check that after work

 

[Jaws]

Cannot see it being the ignition barrel to be honest

 

[Centaur]

Voltage at fuses, Mike.

You say you have checked all the fuses so the next logical thing is to check if there is 12v at the fuses when the ignition is on. Use your meter between battery earth and each fuse in turn and see what is there. The ignition switch is common to all these fuses so lets see if power is being delivered. We could go on guessing for ever, otherwise. :-0)

Out of curiosity please confirm you disconnected the battery whilst you were working on the reg/rec plug.

 

[Jaws]

Right.. been thinking..

First off, pull up the fuse block and double check all the wires are actually in place underneath it

Next, using a multimeter ( -ve on a known good earth ) with the ignition on check for voltage at the fuses..

The easiest way is to pull any fuse from number 1 to 4 and check .. One end will be dead but one end should be live

In fact pull all the fuses 1 to 4 and check you have a live feed to all of them.. Again it will only be at one end of each fuse and should be the same end

Next, make sure the side stand plug is ok

Next, unplug the CDI unit and plug it back in.. Might sound loopy but MIGHT have got a bad connection on one of the feed pins ( unlikely but worth a look )

 

[Jaws]

Bill, the fact the oil light comes on indicates that at least one of the fuses ( number 2 ) has power to it which eliminates the feed from the ignition switch

 

[Centaur]

Now you have arrived, John.

I'll butt out! :bow:

 

[mikefrew]

Bill, the fact the oil light comes on indicates that at least one of the fuses ( number 2 ) has power to it which eliminates the feed from the ignition switch

Will give this a try when I get home and post back results thanks

 

[mikefrew]

Tested if there is power to all fuses and there is, so stumped again

 

[mikeyw64]

humour me here.

Disconnect the plug from the reg/rectifier, does the problem still occur?

If it does then you know its not related

If it doesn't then you know where too look

Also could try finding the plug leading to the ignition switch and use jumpers to short out the relevant wires to 100% rule out the switch

 

[mikefrew]

Tried with reg rec plugged in and out exactly the same symptoms, where would I find the ignition switch? I assume it's at the end of the key, how do I know which wires to short?

 

[mikeyw64]

Tried with reg rec plugged in and out exactly the same symptoms, where would I find the ignition switch? I assume it's at the end of the key, how do I know which wires to short?

you would need a wiring diagram which I dont have to hand

 

[Jaws]

The same wire on the ignition switch that goes to the oil light fuse goes to everything else.. It is not a complicated multi wire switch.. There are only TWO wires that liven up and the one that feeds fuse two feeds the whole block of fuses apart from 5 and 6,,
Its late but I will revisit the map tomorrow..

In the mean time lift the tank and make sure the plugs under there ( behind the engine block in the plastic shroud ) are all well in and seated properly