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The Dangerous Trike

slim63

Never surrender
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Did you fit the front (back) tyre backwards eg against the direction of rotation as marked ?
 

andyBeaker

Moderator
Staff member
Moderator
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so here we have pictures of the fabricated battery tray, just need to complete the top bar.
Started to align the rear axle but need some M27 shims before fixing the pivot points and the welding the near side axle fixing point.
Made new brackets to hold the clocks.
New chunky front tyre, it’s a back tyre really but helps keep the trike stable - well as stable as it can be with an idiot riding it!

Now I’m waiting for parts and working on the plastic work.
Is that a Halfords 100 piece socket set?
 

Malone

Been there, and had one
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I’ve got a Halfords 1/4” drive set that I got as a freebie with a Bike subscription umpteen years ago. Of all my socket sets it’s proven to be the one getting the most use. I used to buy and sell all makes of tool sets and despite having my pick this one is the best.
 

andyBeaker

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I rebuilt and centered one of the hub

the older 147 piece advanced - not your cheap stuff.
Good man. Can't remember how many bits there are in my Advanced set but it is the original. Had it for well over £20 years and got it on offer for £50. Over the years the number of components has stayed pretty much the same but the number of big manly useful bits has gone down and things like Allan keys have gone up in number.
 

Dangerous Brian

Old Hand
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So where am I up to - photos later.

I have now got a set of new braided brake hoses on the front - just need to fill with new fluid and bleed. Hope that goes well as I really like having brakes.

Headlight is fitted and roughly set - switches all work as they should. New horn fitted but it is very weak, after the mot I'll fit a granny killer.

New coolant done with no leaks - not yet got the engine running so I'll recheck once I can get the temperature up. I've had to make a little holder for the header tank and that works well.

Confirmed the alignment of the rear axle and that has now been welded in place. Nice smooth movement (up/down) on the new stub axles. I used castellated nuts with locking pins to avoid binding or coming undone!
Drive shaft and hub installed along with referbed brake parts.

Shocks have been rough fitted and they will be drilled tonight. If that goes well I can fit the rear wheels so I have a rolling unit again.

I will be continuing to work through the wiring and hoping not to have too many horrors - I already know I have to re-wire both handlebar switches as they are short and not connected well.

Next main focus will be fixing all the plastic and then getting everything ready for painting - just 5 minutes that one!!
 

Squag1

Can't remember....
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The horn on the K1100 is very good.
It's twin horns, really a good blast.
 

Dangerous Brian

Old Hand
Club Sponsor
The horn on the K1100 is very good.
It's twin horns, really a good blast.
I don't have the originals so got an aftermarket one....... still it does 'look' good.

Sorted the engine oil level. It was all my fault for not paying attention and the window is fine - or the extra oil cleaned it!.

I must be getting too fat, the aftermarket shocks are way too soft. I will have no choice but to buy heavier ones.

But if there was a prize for rolling chassis I would win, it rolls lovely.
 

Dangerous Brian

Old Hand
Club Sponsor
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so this is where I’m up to.
Now looking for better shocks. I think these must have been knock-offs as they are so soft.

Going to be working on the plastic this weekend and some electrics.
 

Dangerous Brian

Old Hand
Club Sponsor
Valuable lesson learnt last night "Don't do up wheel nuts with Dewalt Impact wrench!"
By doing the wheel nuts up with the wrench I have stripped the splines that stop the studs spinning. Trying to get the wheel back off became a very emotional experience.
In the end I managed to snap the two spinning stud to get the wheel off but the hub is a write-off.

I wont do that again.
 

Dangerous Brian

Old Hand
Club Sponsor
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So despite the injury I have made some progress.
New shocks in place and rear brakes all working. Very pleased with the handbrake which was not a simple job.
I’m now working on the new wiring for the rear.

After lots of effort and cursing I have realised why the front brake is soft, not air in the system. Original front brakes were 2 Pot, replacements are 4 Pot. 13mm master cylinder cannot move enough fluid.
It seems my best option is to source a K1100 master cylinder and controls. This has a 20mm cylinder and the switches from the K100 fit. I might have to change the throttle cable and brake switch connection - thoughts.
 

andyBeaker

Moderator
Staff member
Moderator
Club Sponsor
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So despite the injury I have made some progress.
New shocks in place and rear brakes all working. Very pleased with the handbrake which was not a simple job.
I’m now working on the new wiring for the rear.

After lots of effort and cursing I have realised why the front brake is soft, not air in the system. Original front brakes were 2 Pot, replacements are 4 Pot. 13mm master cylinder cannot move enough fluid.
It seems my best option is to source a K1100 master cylinder and controls. This has a 20mm cylinder and the switches from the K100 fit. I might have to change the throttle cable and brake switch connection - thoughts.
Is that a bag of golf clubs under the cover??
 

Squag1

Can't remember....
Club Sponsor
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Seem ok nothing appears bent.
Got a fork leak though.
Wonder if it was a one time at
time of impact.
 

slim63

Never surrender
Club Sponsor
View attachment 49819 View attachment 49819 View attachment 49820 View attachment 49821

So despite the injury I have made some progress.
New shocks in place and rear brakes all working. Very pleased with the handbrake which was not a simple job.
I’m now working on the new wiring for the rear.

After lots of effort and cursing I have realised why the front brake is soft, not air in the system. Original front brakes were 2 Pot, replacements are 4 Pot. 13mm master cylinder cannot move enough fluid.
It seems my best option is to source a K1100 master cylinder and controls. This has a 20mm cylinder and the switches from the K100 fit. I might have to change the throttle cable and brake switch connection - thoughts.

I don't know if this trike has ever been on the road but a couple of things strike me that would make me check carefully just to be sure, don't think i'm taking the pee mate i'd much rather say & be wrong than you finishing it & then having to go back over it again :oops: so...……..

The prop looks at a very steep angle from the pic so I am wondering if the UJ might catch in use, maybe when the suspension compresses a bit, presuming reliant UJ's they will run at a 33 degree angle without catching (could be just the angle of the pic but worth mentioning I think)

Rear shocks are leaning in which is going to make then stick a bit under load I would have thought & even if not that will be hard on the seals & bushes ……………. not sure what's going on with the bottom shock mounts but they look like they could spin on the tube unless they are pinned to the frame ? …… and lastly sorry but the top of shocks need to lean forward a bit to work properly, as they are even without the lean (inwards) once the suspension tries to move they will stick, the rear wheels move in a big arc around the pivot point so as the shocks are I think you will get a little movement then it will effectively become a hardtail

On a good note, good work on the handbrake, I know how bloody awkward a job that can be (y)
 
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