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The Dangerous Trike

Dangerous Brian

Old Hand
Club Sponsor
Am I missing something - what's to stop the whole rear end folding back on itself under the bike?
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This is the bike frame that bolts to the engine block. Off the back of that are the shock hangers. The shocks link the top ridged frame to the rear axle frame that pivots of the back of the engine block....
Have you got all of that? (y)
 

Cougar377

Express elevator to hell
Staff member
Moderator
Club Sponsor
More importantly....what the hell happened to Dusty Bin...??? :eek:
 

slim63

Never surrender
Club Sponsor

That's not so good imho I cant see exactly how its done but the axle tubes are thin so welding all the way around one can distort them especially if they done in one hit

A better way imo is to make mounts so that the axle can be removed & its dead easy to do ……… take 2 pieces of thick walled 2x1 box & tack them together side by side making a 4x1 box, drill straight through both pieces from the inch wide side top & bottom to take hefty bolts then turn them back to the 4" side & run a 50mm (from memory) hole saw through in the centre on the join, undo the tacks & you have 1 pair of axle mounts that just need a crush tube welding in for the mounting bolts, one half can be welded to the frame & the other to the axle but try not to get too much heat into the axle tube doing it (use a heat sink) …. repeat for the other mount

You could use other size box section if you think that 2x1 is not up to the job or you could reinforce it by taking the tube hole out bigger & welding in a plate to get back to the axle size

Alternatively you could get the same thing machined from solid at great expense
 

Dangerous Brian

Old Hand
Club Sponsor
That's not so good imho I cant see exactly how its done but the axle tubes are thin so welding all the way around one can distort them especially if they done in one hit

A better way imo is to make mounts so that the axle can be removed & its dead easy to do ……… take 2 pieces of thick walled 2x1 box & tack them together side by side making a 4x1 box, drill straight through both pieces from the inch wide side top & bottom to take hefty bolts then turn them back to the 4" side & run a 50mm (from memory) hole saw through in the centre on the join, undo the tacks & you have 1 pair of axle mounts that just need a crush tube welding in for the mounting bolts, one half can be welded to the frame & the other to the axle but try not to get too much heat into the axle tube doing it (use a heat sink) …. repeat for the other mount

You could use other size box section if you think that 2x1 is not up to the job or you could reinforce it by taking the tube hole out bigger & welding in a plate to get back to the axle size

Alternatively you could get the same thing machined from solid at great expense
I did look at making mounts but likely to do more damage trying to cut all the current welds.
I will see how it goes as it might mean getting another axle.
 

slim63

Never surrender
Club Sponsor
I did look at making mounts but likely to do more damage trying to cut all the current welds.
I will see how it goes as it might mean getting another axle.

Easy enough to just change the axle tubes mate, its been a while since I did it so cant remember the thickness of the tubes but I do know you can get some slightly thicker in there ( I did just because I had some)
 

Dangerous Brian

Old Hand
Club Sponsor
So just a brief update on the project.
After stripping back and reinforcing the frame I have painted it and fixed it back to the engine.
The forks which were from an FZ750 Genesis have been serviced. Full strip and clean with new seals. I have used 15w oil to make them a little stiffer. The four pot calipers have also been stripped and services with new seals and pads. I did mix up one of the bottom yoke bolts - it was the one that snapped before it got to the required 47nm torque setting!! (sorted now).

New headstock bearings went in surprisingly easily and came with nice dust seals. Plenty of grease as I don't plan on going in there again anytime soon.

Got new tyres front and rear. Had a long chat with a trike bloke about the front tyre as I wanted something with a flatter profile. As my wheel it 17" the trick it seems it to fit a back tyre. Now I have proved it fits I will be removing the directional arrows or the mot man might not like the way they point!

Filled the engine with oil - will now have to drain the oil and measure it properly because I cannot see anything in the stupid oil level window! The K100 is very particular about oil level.

Stripped the rear axle to check the diff and the condition of the tubes. Not only are these is great nick but the axle turns out to be the fabled B type high ratio - bonus I think. As a couple of the studs holding the diff together have snapped or stripped the threads I removed them all and re-tapped the holes for new metric studs. Gave the whole thing a good clean and hopefully putting it back together this weekend with nice new gear oil.

Fitted the wiring harness and started fixing the 'adapted' sections. For some reason the two 12 pin connectors that go into the clocks had be changed (badly) for 10 pin sockets, with the extra loose wires just connected!
I had a donor harness so I sat there splicing in, total job - cut, strip, twist, solder, cover with heat shrink. All good until I find that the bike has an extra wire..... don't you just love wiring diagrams. My bike has an extra wire at number 8 for the fuel sender. Not a problem, as the donor connector has number 8 blank - do you think I can get the bloody wire to push into the empty socket!!! Socket is empty and the locking plate has been removed but the metal connector just wont push past the tab that is there to stop it pushing back when the pin engages. Might have to drill the tab and then use something else to stop it pushing out when engaged.

So that is where I finished last night at 21:40 hrs.
 

Dangerous Brian

Old Hand
Club Sponsor
I don't think it is a big job to fit a new glass to the window in the sump.

http://k11og.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=13385&highlight=oil+level+sight+glass+replacement

Try here.
One post said it's a 10 minute job.
As always you are a great help. (y)

I should have been watching more carefully because I cannot tell if I'm not up to the sight glass or past it. :oops:
My logic was to drop the oil and measure the exact 3.75 lt and put it back in. However I will look at a new sight glass as that is the better long term answer.
 

Squag1

Can't remember....
Club Sponsor
As always you are a great help. (y)

I should have been watching more carefully because I cannot tell if I'm not up to the sight glass or past it. :oops:
My logic was to drop the oil and measure the exact 3.75 lt and put it back in. However I will look at a new sight glass as that is the better long term answer.
But it has to be empty to replace.
It's not like some bikes which have to be run to show the oil like the bird.
Normally the oil shows on the glass.
It does say with the K1100 to run it.
I'm not sure what it tells me!
 

Dangerous Brian

Old Hand
Club Sponsor
So where is it??
I had a delay in production due to management labour reallocation! Wife has made me do 'building projects'.

I have done some fabrication - brackets for the clocks, battery tray and holder for the radiator header tank.
Set back with the rear brakes as the wrong parts were sent, should have them this weekend.
I have ordered a rectangle headlight just to be different but think I need to make a cover for the back of the clock - still toying with ideas.

However the long haired General has said I have to finish the pond landscape project first......:tiburon:

Will try to remember more pictures at the weekend.
 

Squag1

Can't remember....
Club Sponsor
Would it not have been a rectangular headlight anyway??
 

Dangerous Brian

Old Hand
Club Sponsor
Yes, but in a fairing. I'm just using a stand alone headlight. Then I am thinking about an accessory bar below with the indicators and two spot lights.
 

Dangerous Brian

Old Hand
Club Sponsor
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so here we have pictures of the fabricated battery tray, just need to complete the top bar.
Started to align the rear axle but need some M27 shims before fixing the pivot points and the welding the near side axle fixing point.
Made new brackets to hold the clocks.
New chunky front tyre, it’s a back tyre really but helps keep the trike stable - well as stable as it can be with an idiot riding it!

Now I’m waiting for parts and working on the plastic work.
 
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