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Not another charging issue!!

  • Thread starter mrangry
  • Start date
M

mrangry

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Hi all.
I have a 97 carb Bird which has been giving me some charging issues recently. Basically I noticed whilst riding home the other week the speedo and rev counter would drop when indicating or turning on lights etc.
I understand now that this is indicative of a low battery, and sure enough after getting home the battery was flat.

I have searched through old posts and am going to carry out the test on the genny and reg/rectifier once the new battery is charged. I unplugged the multi-plug from the regulator and noticed that one of the connectors within the plug (yellow one) was blackened due to overheating and suspect the regulator, however can this also be caused by a fault in the generator also causing the regulator to blow/overheat?
 

andyBeaker

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My advice = bite the bullet and replace reg/rec, generator and battery. Replacing one may well prove to be a false economy as well as madly frustrating. Easy job (two hours at the most for a novice including soldering the new plug on the new generator) but don't forget to order a new gasket for the generator cover.

Jaws is the place for hardware@tu*
 
M

mrangry

Guest
Yes I was thinking that but as usual cash is always being diverted to other stuff like kids etc... but I have bought a new battery and it is on charge as I type. I just don't want to throw money away when I don't have to if the genny is fine but I suppose the test tomorrow will show.

One other thing I noticed is that sometimes when turning on the ignition nothing happens and I have to turn it off and on and off a couple of times or "fiddle" the key before the lights come on. This may be a completely separate issue but may be worth a mention.
 
M

mrangry

Guest
Update

I have carried out the voltage test between the 3 yellow wires at the regulator plug to test the generator coils and they are all reading between 33 and 34 volts, this fluctuates very slightly with engine revs. This indicates that they are all the same, however is the voltage too high?

I don't want to replace the generator needlessly.

I am puzzled by the issue with the ignition switch as when I wiggle the wires the ignition does not go on and off to suggest a loose wire. If I turn the ignition on sometimes the lights don't come on but if I move the key back ever so slightly they come on suggesting the switch itself maybe??
 

Centaur

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Generator voltage.....

The actual voltage is not that important as your meter may well be inaccurate. What is important is that it is the same across all three phases. Initially I would clean up the alternator plug thoroughly and test the output from the reg/rec when you fit the battery. It might have been just the battery gone tits up. If all is OK then keep an eye on the plug in the future. If it is very bad then replace it. That plug carries a lot of amps and any resistance through corrosion is dissipated as heat which causes further corrosion and so on until breakdown!:eek:
 
M

mrangry

Guest
The actual voltage is not that important as your meter may well be inaccurate. What is important is that it is the same across all three phases. Initially I would clean up the alternator plug thoroughly and test the output from the reg/rec when you fit the battery. It might have been just the battery gone tits up. If all is OK then keep an eye on the plug in the future. If it is very bad then replace it. That plug carries a lot of amps and any resistance through corrosion is dissipated as heat which causes further corrosion and so on until breakdown!:eek:


Thanks for that, I think I will replace the plug and connectors. Does anyone know where I could buy a new plug similar to oe part?
 

Centaur

Site Pedant
Club Sponsor
I have carried out the voltage test between the 3 yellow wires at the regulator plug to test the generator coils and they are all reading between 33 and 34 volts, this fluctuates very slightly with engine revs. This indicates that they are all the same, however is the voltage too high?

I don't want to replace the generator needlessly.

I am puzzled by the issue with the ignition switch as when I wiggle the wires the ignition does not go on and off to suggest a loose wire. If I turn the ignition on sometimes the lights don't come on but if I move the key back ever so slightly they come on suggesting the switch itself maybe??


I too think it is possibly the switch itself and not an electrical problem as such. Have you tried putting some graphite dust into the lock....not wd40 or any other liquid.:-0)
 
M

mrangry

Guest
[/color]

I too think it is possibly the switch itself and not an electrical problem as such. Have you tried putting some graphite dust into the lock....not wd40 or any other liquid.:-0)

Too late as I sprayed it with GT 85 and it seems to have cured it@tu*
 

Centaur

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Thanks for that, I think I will replace the plug and connectors. Does anyone know where I could buy a new plug similar to oe part?

Does your reg/rec have a built in socket or a lead and socket?
 
M

mrangry

Guest
Does your reg/rec have a built in socket or a lead and socket?

It has male spades sticking out in a plastic shroud. The bike loom has an off white (slightly charred) plug with female spades inside it.
 

Centaur

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Pity!

Clean up the males in the reg/rec thoroughly with fine sandpaper and check the voltages across the battery when you fit it. If the volts are good then I would live with it but regularly check that the plug is not overheating. I doubt if you will easily find a replacement plug for the alternator. Is there a partnumber/make on the plug? going for a g&t. Back in the morning.@tu*
 

andyBeaker

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Sorry mate, if the plug is 'slightly charred' I would suggest you are not that far away from meltdown.sh1tehppns

May I refer you to my first post (sod the kids:-0)) or , even better, give JAWS a bell for best dvice..
 

Centaur

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Sorry Andy but some of us live in the real world where expense IS an issue. £200 may be easy for you but some of us have to compromise. Replacing the three would be ideal or why not replace the bike!:-0) The corrosion can be removed from the reg/rec spades but it is likely there is some corrosion in the alt plug which cannot be cleaned. A new plug would be better but I have never been able to find one when confronted with this problem in the past. My current bike has had all plugs removed and all connections are soldered and heatshrink wrapped. This has raised the output by nearly a volt! The existing wiring is old and corroded. In a few years our precious Bbirds will be facing similar problems but some will be able to afford new looms!:-0) I have a 1980 Toyota Hiace campervan as many on here know. I have bypassed a lot of the wiring to get her to start easily and charge efficiently. Sadly the floor rust has finally claimed her and the scrap man cometh.:cry:
 
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Centaur

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Sorry mate, if the plug is 'slightly charred' I would suggest you are not that far away from meltdown.sh1tehppns

May I refer you to my first post (sod the kids:-0)) or , even better, give JAWS a bell for best dvice..


Yes, John has my respect for his knowledge and willingness to help on all things Blackbird. I served an apprenticeship on electronics and have worked on aircraft, bikes and cars electrics for over 55 years. I sometimes help out a local bike repairer when he has a particularly sticky electrical problem. I have been able to give advice and sometimes practical help to peeps on here and am happy to do so. Your often repeated mantra of "Change everything" is not always feasable.
 

Centaur

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Brilliant.

Unless you have access to a hydraulic crimper I would solder the wires . Are you used to soldering Mr A?
 
M

mrangry

Guest
Soldering

Unless you have access to a hydraulic crimper I would solder the wires . Are you used to soldering Mr A?

Yes I'm fine with soldering.

The more I think about this problem, the day it happened I had a guy in the carwash use a jet washer to clean the bike (yes I know tut tut!) and am wondering whether this allowing water into the plug may have caused the area of high resistance and overheating of the joint....hmmmm

I am off touring in Ireland in a few weeks and have been looking at replacement regulator/rectifiers and they seem to differ widely in price from ?27 to ?85. Like anything in life I realise that you pay for quality, but how different are these in reality?
 
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