• Welcome to the new B.I.R.D. Forum. Please be sure to read the "New Member / New Registered ? Please Read" thread in the Coffee Shop. This contains some important information. To become a full member ( £5.90 a year ) simply click on your user name near the top on the right I hope you enjoy the new site ................ Jaws ( John )

Fork oil level, Eureka moment...... ;-)

  • Thread starter greenbriggs9
  • Start date
G

greenbriggs9

Guest
Lol.
What is wrong with you lot ?
Seriously.
I was only trying to help.
You know this site is full of nasty folk.
The American version is much better.
They don't get jealous and they help each other out.
Cbrx.com it is
You lot are crazy
 

AV8TOR

Sponsor
Lol.
What is wrong with you lot ?
Seriously.
I was only trying to help.
You know this site is full of nasty folk.
The American version is much better.
They don't get jealous and they help each other out.
Cbrx.com it is
You lot are crazy

Bye & enjoy The US&A you'll fit right in they will not spot another ..........
 

AV8TOR

Sponsor
Lol.
What is wrong with you lot ?
Seriously.
I was only trying to help.
You know this site is full of nasty folk.
The American version is much better.
They don't get jealous and they help each other out.
Cbrx.com it is
You lot are crazy

What was nasty or crazy about my first & helpfull post ?

(This has to be one of the most simple tools to make
1, Syringe
2, PVC tubing
3, Copper tube (thin wall from B&Q or model shop)
Now fit PVC tube over the syringe end then insert copper tube in the other end of said PVC tube, now mark from bottom of copper tube required dipstick length, now insert copper tube into fork leg & simply draw off any excess oil with syringe simple.
Hope this helps instead of pissing about with hacksaw blades or other crap dipped into forks.)
 
S

Sukhoi356

Guest
Kenny even as a lowly (thick?) mechatronics tech and energieanlagenelektroniker I get it:bow:
Alex W
 
T

trippo00

Guest
What was nasty or crazy about my first & helpfull post ?

(This has to be one of the most simple tools to make
1, Syringe
2, PVC tubing
3, Copper tube (thin wall from B&Q or model shop)
Now fit PVC tube over the syringe end then insert copper tube in the other end of said PVC tube, now mark from bottom of copper tube required dipstick length, now insert copper tube into fork leg & simply draw off any excess oil with syringe simple.
Hope this helps instead of pissing about with hacksaw blades or other crap dipped into forks.)


Spot on for me pal :bow::bow::bow:
Just the way i do it @tu*
 

Centaur

Site Pedant
Club Sponsor
Personally............

I have found my long thin willie ideal for this job. I can remove or add fluid as required.@tu*
 

Tinytim

Registered User
Lol, not half matey @tu*

Take no notice of Av8tor, he cannae help being a coont to new peeps. :wank:

Stick around mate, plenty more cnuts where he comes from, all harmless of course and interspersed with one or two decent blerks. @tu*
 

Tinytim

Registered User
What sort of engineer?

Define FULLY qualified please.

I only as as I'm still learning and had no idea you could get to the end of qualifications unless you are Doctor Who's age. And, we have heating engineers that come into work and I guess they are fully qualified in their trade too.

ps. A decent engineer would drill a wee hole in the stanchion, and tap it for a set screw and seal. This way, when the oil dribbled out the level would be correct. :bang:

pop screw back in and Bingo.

pps. Love the replies and belligerence. Go man go.


Ya see greengrass, this is classy, veiled coontishness. :bow:

Fookin hacksaw blade my arse...there's Yorkshire "engineering" solutions for ya eh 8rfl@8rfl@:wank:



No flouncing now. ;-0))
 

AV8TOR

Sponsor
Kenny even as a lowly (thick?) mechatronics tech and energieanlagenelektroniker I get it:bow:
Alex W

Alex glad to see your sorted & on Bird hope to catch up with you next time we fly/ride upto Perth.
Also glad to see another Red Bird Rider & Gay as well @tu*man8um
 
G

G1Blackbird

Guest
Interesting reading! I'm going to change the oil in the forks as part of a winter service but rather than make the tool and in perhaps more of a lazier non engineering type way to get the air gap right has anyone measured the volume of oil needed, would much rather pour in the right amount?
 

Wolfie

Is a lunp
springs in ? springs out? weight of oil? weight of air? volume of oil?, damper setting? stanchion height from yoke? spacer lengths? spring lengths? then sag measurements?
 
G

G1Blackbird

Guest
looking in haynes (i know) says to measure from top of the tube with the spring removed and the leg fully compressed, but I suppose as long as you know how its been done, with origional spring or upgrade in, out or whatever etc using one of the above mentioned tools it would just be a case of using the same amount of oil......... just looking an easy option and using someone elses expertise.. LOL @tu*
 
G

greenbriggs9

Guest
8rfl@wry
Now don't forget what I said lads!
Good old hacksaw blade ;-)
Proper bit o Yorkshire engineering lol

;-)8rfl@
 
G

greenbriggs9

Guest
Interesting reading! I'm going to change the oil in the forks as part of a winter service but rather than make the tool and in perhaps more of a lazier non engineering type way to get the air gap right has anyone measured the volume of oil needed, would much rather pour in the right amount?
97 to 98 models = 486 plus or minus 2.5 cc
99 models onwards = 483 plus or minus. 2.5 cc
Get the job done, makes a massive difference ;)
 

Squag1

Can't remember....
Club Sponsor
Oh I'm tired after all that!!!

A go with G1 - measure it (in cc.c of course)
I have much more interesting uses for syringes - me and Lumpy that is :-0):-0):-0):-0):-0)
 

Jaws

Corporal CockUp
Staff member
Moderator
Club Sponsor
looking in haynes (i know) says to measure from top of the tube with the spring removed and the leg fully compressed, but I suppose as long as you know how its been done, with origional spring or upgrade in, out or whatever etc using one of the above mentioned tools it would just be a case of using the same amount of oil......... just looking an easy option and using someone elses expertise.. LOL @tu*


The information is wrong.. sorry Do it with the springs IN



97 to 98 models = 486 plus or minus 2.5 cc
99 models onwards = 483 plus or minus. 2.5 cc
Get the job done, makes a massive difference ;)

All well and good as a VERY rough guide, but unless you remove the damper pack, drain it for 24 hours, wash it with a degreaser or similar, again drain it and let it dry off for 24 hours you will not get the correct amount in.
As said, use the volumetric measurement as a rough to get you close @tu*

Whilst using a measuring stick works just fine and there is absolutely nowt wrong with using that method, it is not industry standard practice purely because it takes so much longer than sticking a tube in and sucking. ( :-0) )
 

Wolfie

Is a lunp
pour the oil in only gets you in the rough area.

taken from the honda service manual for the injection piss of shit.

notice damper in , spring out.
 

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Jaws

Corporal CockUp
Staff member
Moderator
Club Sponsor
Yessssss... and it is wrong ( actually wrong on two counts in that version, which I have not seen before )

In the original Honda manual the springs should be in and the progressive part of the springs at the top ( not that it makes much difference as far as I can work out.. progressives are a compromise and a poor one at that )

Haynes then brought out a manual that said do it with the springs out, and low and behold reprint three of the Honda book had the same

I cannot help think that Haynes tends to copy a lot of the OEM book of words and visa-versa too !! And a whole lot of the info is not based on anything more than parroting rather than someone physically doing the job ( classic example is how they say you should change the plugs.. absolute bloody joke ! )

No matter what, I base my suggestion not on any manual .. I base it entirely on personal experimentation and experience, plus feedback from countless customers who have done the deed as I have mentioned.. springs in @tu*
 
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