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Electrical problems, wont start

  • Thread starter Paddy.
  • Start date
P

Paddy.

Guest
Well... seeing as I hijacked another guys thread, should start my own 8rfl@

2000 Blackbird, FI, 51,300 miles, runs when you bump start it but gradually loses power and dies a mile from home. Previous owner had dropped it Tuesday, I picked up Thursday. Bike wasn't used Tuesday and battery was toast on Wednesday and would only let you bump start the bike.

I swapped current battery for one of equal power from my other bike which turned the bike over nice and fast but not firing up.

Cannot use current bike battery as it appears to be goosed after nearly a year of the previous owner not changing the reg rec, not a problem as I have a hence car battery.

Basically, connect car battery, doesn't seem enough juice to turn over fast enough. Start a car and give it a few revs, bike spins faster but nothing happens.

Pump primes, battery being forced into the Blackbird from the car is 14.1V (At least the readings from the jump leads are around that.

I am thinking spark plugs initially as I do not know when they were last changed... but getting to them is like the krypton factor.

Checked the main earth last night, cleaned frame and connectors, bolted back down.

Pump primes and immob light comes on then off, it cranks bridging the solenoid or using the start button.

With key in the on position with no battery connected +ve and -ve of battery have continuity... should that be so?

Thanks!
 

Centaur

Site Pedant
Club Sponsor
Morning Paddy.

Well... seeing as I hijacked another guys thread, should start my own 8rfl@

2000 Blackbird, FI, 51,300 miles, runs when you bump start it but gradually loses power and dies a mile from home. Previous owner had dropped it Tuesday, I picked up Thursday. Bike wasn't used Tuesday and battery was toast on Wednesday and would only let you bump start the bike.

I swapped current battery for one of equal power from my other bike which turned the bike over nice and fast but not firing up.

Cannot use current bike battery as it appears to be goosed after nearly a year of the previous owner not changing the reg rec, not a problem as I have a hence car battery.

Basically, connect car battery, doesn't seem enough juice to turn over fast enough. Start a car and give it a few revs, bike spins faster but nothing happens.

Pump primes, battery being forced into the Blackbird from the car is 14.1V (At least the readings from the jump leads are around that.

I am thinking spark plugs initially as I do not know when they were last changed... but getting to them is like the krypton factor.

Checked the main earth last night, cleaned frame and connectors, bolted back down.

Pump primes and immob light comes on then off, it cranks bridging the solenoid or using the start button.

With key in the on position with no battery connected +ve and -ve of battery have continuity... should that be so?

Thanks!

Yes, Paddy but with ignition off there should be no connection. Apart from Hiss is there an alarm fitted?
 
P

Paddy.

Guest
Nothing at all mate, absolutely standard.

Nothing with IGN off, tester beeps when switched on.

-ve terminal to frame is 00.3 ohms, engine is roughly the same but I keep seeing spikes to over 100 ohms, unsure if thats crap hand holding by me though.

I really am a total novice with electrical stuff on bikes 8rfl@

I've put the tester in the stator side connector, registering nothing on continuity... again, could be me being a total novice though.

The strange thing is it bumps as long as the pump primes.
 

Centaur

Site Pedant
Club Sponsor
Just to bring the watchers up to date.

The bike will bump start with a new battery but grinds to a halt after a few miles. Paddy is going to bump it this afternoon, then ride back and get a meter across the battery with the engine running to see if it is charging!
 
P

Paddy.

Guest
Hi Bill,

Tried contacting you but cannot get through to your phone, the Bird is sitting on my drive now. It has since died but I do have some readings for you.

If you could drop me a call or let me know when it is good to call, I'll do so :-0)
 

Centaur

Site Pedant
Club Sponsor
Thanks Paddy.

Definitely fooked.

Interestingly for anyone following Paddy had 9v ac across each phase and resistance of .5 ohm on each phase. In my limited experience usually one phase will be knackered and the other two OK so I was not convinced the problem was the alternator. Admittedly resistance measurement with a cheap meter is not very accurate but the fact that all three phases were identical was a bit of a worry. I was concerned that the new reg/rec recently fitted was perhaps not compatible and I did not want Paddy buying an alternator he didn't need.

The photo does not lie. 8rfl@
 

CBRDEAN0

Registered User
Interestingly for anyone following Paddy had 9v ac across each phase and resistance of .5 ohm on each phase. In my limited experience usually one phase will be knackered and the other two OK so I was not convinced the problem was the alternator.

I was always told to expect a minimum of 20v per phase when they are working properly.
When I tested mine I got equal 26v readings.
 

Centaur

Site Pedant
Club Sponsor
That's correct, Deano.

What was unusual was that all three phases were showing 9v and all three had .5 ohm resistance. Usually, I believe, one or two phases will burn out and show different voltages.
 
P

Paddy.

Guest
Any idea on an ETA if I ordered Thursday? @tu*
 

Me!

Utterly retired
Club Sponsor
Johns pretty quick and for a nominal extra fee he will send next day @tu*
 

4_4_2

Registered User
looks like that alternator was trying to charge into either a dead short Reg Rec or battery for quite a while..........that has been a bit hot for quite a while to look that bad!
 
P

Paddy.

Guest
Well, I've still not been paid gr0n:

What is the likelihood that the stator being fooked would stop the bike sparking on the button, but bumping would allow it to..?

Otherwise, throwing ?100 at a stator to have to bump the bike daily is a ball ache 8rfl@
 

Centaur

Site Pedant
Club Sponsor
Hi Paddy.

Your alternator (stator) is fooked. When you replace that we can check the reg/rec and battery although while you are waiting you can take your battery to Halfords and have it load checked! Recharge it off the bike first.

The reason it would bump start but not with the starter is because your battery was partially discharged and not able to turn the engine over AND provide a spark.

When you bump start the battery only has to provide a spark which your partially charged battery was able to do for a time.

With a new alternator fitted, the reg/rec working properly and a charged battery your bike will start on the button every time.
 
P

Paddy.

Guest
But the test battery from my other bikes and the battery from the car whilst running provided over 14v but no actual sparking occurred.

That is my main worry, its had proper large batteries thrown at it with no attempt at firing :bang:
 
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