Datatool System 3 Removal.

[Centaur]

Easy Simo. Take the cover off security torx from Halfords if you don't have any.

Bridge terminals 1&2 and 5&6 . 14 terminals in a block of 8 and 6. Count from the left. Take the fuse out of the red power lead. Lid back on. Job done.

http://www.sonicsideshow.com/blog/-how-to-bypass-a-datatool-system-3-motorcycle-alarm

If you need someone to talk you through it let me know. @tu*

 

[simo268]

Many thanks brother! I appreciate the info. Battery drain is the main reason I need rid of the alarm,that and its annoying as fuck. @tu*

 

[mikeyw64]

Bridge terminals 1&2 and 5&6 . !4 terminals in a block of 8 and 6. Count from the left. Take the fuse out of the red power lead. Lid back on. Job done.

http://www.sonicsideshow.com/blog/-how-to-bypass-a-datatool-system-3-motorcycle-alarm

If you need someone to talk you through it let me know. @tu*

I disconnected the block of 6 and left it disconnected plus the speaker lead before sealing the box back up then left everything else in the bike

 

[Centaur]

Sham fitting perhaps, Mikey.

If you disconnected the block of six without bridging the bike should not run!

1&2 are spliced into the ignition and 5&6 are spliced into the starter circuit. 3&4 go to the indicators and are irrelevant. If you disconnected the whole block without bridging and the bike still runs then you must have had a dummy installation. I have seen this a couple of times where an amateur pretended to fit the alarm but the important wires were not spliced in. Alarm would blip etc but in fact did nothing. 8rfl@

 

[Jaws]

Absolutely agree with you there Bill

 

[mikeyw64]

If you disconnected the block of six without bridging the bike should not run!

1&2 are spliced into the ignition and 5&6 are spliced into the starter circuit. 3&4 go to the indicators and are irrelevant. If you disconnected the whole block without bridging and the bike still runs then you must have had a dummy installation. I have seen this a couple of times where an amateur pretended to fit the alarm but the important wires were not spliced in. Alarm would blip etc but in fact did nothing. 8rfl@

Bridged first

Would run with it bridged & connected but the hazards were permanatly on

 

[Centaur]

That's more like it, Mikey.

Bridged first

Would run with it bridged & connected but the hazards were permanatly on

This is why I recommend disconnecting the power after bridging. :-0)

 

[mikeyw64]

This is why I recommend disconnecting the power after bridging. :-0)

2 ways of achieving the same result then @tu*

 

[Centaur]

Mine is better! b0x18rfl@

 

[simo268]

I've successfully bypassed my alarm now,I also removed the battery inside the unit. Is it also advised to remove the fuse? If so is it a blade type fuse?

 

[Centaur]

Probably a blade, Simo.

Follow the power lead until you find the inline fuse and remove it. As all the leads are black the power is the first of the eight block next to the end of the six block.

 

[timbertops]

Gave up, too much trouble, got local bike shop to remove it, £80 cash, sorted in 1 hr.

 

[slim63]

I could also do with the info if anyone can supply it to me, I don't have a problem removing the alarm just not enough time to do it at the moment so it seems this could be an easy short term solution :-0)

 

[Centaur]

Slim & Timbertops.

See post #61. It really is that easy. Any problems ask on here. :-0)