it may still be full of water put not under 1.1 bar of it
after you removed the air did you top it back up to 1.1 bar
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Combi pressure help if poss.
- Thread starter Jono
- Start date
it may still be full of water put not under 1.1 bar of it
after you removed the air did you top it back up to 1.1 bar
Yeah, topped it up last night after bleeding the wall rad.
This morning when I got up it was 0.7, topped it up to 1.1 before we went out this morning, heating left off.
Got back and it was 0.5, but the highest rad (Bathroom) was still topped up.
Just topped it up again as the heating is now on. See what happens. :dunno:
Preparing to rip up the tongue and groove flooring in the dining room to have a look under at the pipes (Much to my wifes dismay)!!! b0x2
This morning when I got up it was 0.7, topped it up to 1.1 before we went out this morning, heating left off.
Got back and it was 0.5, but the highest rad (Bathroom) was still topped up.
Just topped it up again as the heating is now on. See what happens. :dunno:
Preparing to rip up the tongue and groove flooring in the dining room to have a look under at the pipes (Much to my wifes dismay)!!! b0x2
I take it you have a wood floor under the flooring and if so the leak has to there
As you have now topped it up 3 or. 4 times now and I would have thought it must lose well over a point of water to drop like that and if it had been on the second floor you would have seen it
Good luck
Let us know how you get on
@tu*
As you have now topped it up 3 or. 4 times now and I would have thought it must lose well over a point of water to drop like that and if it had been on the second floor you would have seen it
Good luck
Let us know how you get on
@tu*
bmwdumptruck
Come on you Hatters
Can I just point out the obvious, just make sure you check everywhere before ripping flooring etc up. Check all the valves, check all round the boiler, the rads( you could just have a perferation on a radiator thats just weeping and you've not noticed it)They do look a little old.
If you have to go under a floor, is there anywhere you can make an access hatch and crawl in under the floor rather than rip it all up. Employing a small teenage son or nephew can be handy for this... guess how I started in the trade:-0)
If you have to go under a floor, is there anywhere you can make an access hatch and crawl in under the floor rather than rip it all up. Employing a small teenage son or nephew can be handy for this... guess how I started in the trade:-0)
Well heating working fine up to now, only temp displayed until heating goes off then pressure is displayed, will wait to see what has happened when heating goes off. All upstairs rads are topped and hot, would they not start to lose water if the system was leaking.
Just trying to put off ripping up the ground floors. sh1tehppns
Just trying to put off ripping up the ground floors. sh1tehppns
Would they still be full though if there was a leak???
yes to a point as you fill the system up then pressurises it so your losing a small amount out the system to make it drop in pressure
so will be still full of water
i would turn the heating off and fill it to 2.2bar and then shut off the flow and return on the under side of boiler
leave it for about 2/3 h
then look and see if the pressure has dropped if its still the same your know its not losing it in the boiler its self
open the taps up and then see if it drops after about 1h then your know its in the pipe work
my way of thinking is as the boiler heats the water the pressure will rise and i think this is were your then having the leak thats why i say fill it to 2.2 as it should not rise from 1.2 to 2.2 when heating so your taking it to were i would say is max
by turning off the taps underside of boiler will soon tell you if its the boiler losing it or the pipe work
good luck
so will be still full of water
i would turn the heating off and fill it to 2.2bar and then shut off the flow and return on the under side of boiler
leave it for about 2/3 h
then look and see if the pressure has dropped if its still the same your know its not losing it in the boiler its self
open the taps up and then see if it drops after about 1h then your know its in the pipe work
my way of thinking is as the boiler heats the water the pressure will rise and i think this is were your then having the leak thats why i say fill it to 2.2 as it should not rise from 1.2 to 2.2 when heating so your taking it to were i would say is max
by turning off the taps underside of boiler will soon tell you if its the boiler losing it or the pipe work
good luck
Thanks :bow:, here's the update.
Filled boiler to 2.2, shut off flow and return valves to radiators under boiler.
Went out for a few hours, on return,
Boiler showing 1.1 and some evidence of dripping from blow off pipe outside, been a dry morning here and the end of the small pipe was wet and had been dripping.
Not sure if that's good news with regards to taking up the floors or not :dunno:?
I hope so!!!
Filled boiler to 2.2, shut off flow and return valves to radiators under boiler.
Went out for a few hours, on return,
Boiler showing 1.1 and some evidence of dripping from blow off pipe outside, been a dry morning here and the end of the small pipe was wet and had been dripping.
Not sure if that's good news with regards to taking up the floors or not :dunno:?
I hope so!!!
I guess this is what you need to change then. http://www.sparestraders.co.uk/product/glow-worm-2000801904-heating-safety-valve-3bar/
thats the part Jono your have no problem running the boiler like it is you just need to keep topping up to keep it going
i would change the filling loop as well but thats up to you
easy to change for your self as your not touching the gas side in any way
shut off flow return and cold in to boiler hold down the leaver on blow off till all water is out, there is a small tap (blue) in there to drain out the last bit in to a tub,
change part C clip to boiler easy much sure the O ring is in place befor you push it back in then the C clip and the its just the nut to the copper pipe
open all taps and refill
don't for get bottle of x100 would not go a miss
@tu*
bmwdumptruck
Come on you Hatters
Changed 2 'pressure relief valves' this week. Very common. There usually fine until they get disturbed, then refuse to reseat.
Come on Rob, let's at least call them by there correct name. @tu*. You'll be calling a basin a sink, and a cylinder a tank like most customers do next.....:-0)
Come on Rob, let's at least call them by there correct name. @tu*. You'll be calling a basin a sink, and a cylinder a tank like most customers do next.....:-0)
to me there all the same thing all a pain in the ass But i make a living that's what it all comes down to.......
i HATE jobs worth and the alike that hide behind Bull shit and we have a lot of them round here
i had a Gas-elec guy this week shut of a fire and back boiler as immediately dangerous for wait for it
in need of a service
and at risk
air vent to small
he was only doing a land lord safety
when asked why did you not services it when you had the fire off i did not have the time
But he had the time to put it all back and the open the gas meter box and to cap off the pipe
:wank:
British Gas.......GRRRRRRR
British gas engineer came to do our Boiler service a few weeks back,while my father in law house sat for us as we were at work. He says she disappeared into the loft to check the flue as it passes through to a rooftop vent, then she came back down, threw a smoke bomb in the fire place (nothing to do with the boiler, that's in a cupboard on the landing) and then she went back up. Five minutes later she came back down, capped off the fire and stuck a note on it saying it was dangerous. When I got home, I rang em to ask why. Apparently, where the flue changes from the pre-cast flue blocks to the steel flue, the cement has all cracked up and it was leaking flue gases into the loft. FAIR ENOUGH BUT I may not be a registered Gas installer but I do know that she could have re-sealed the Flue a F**cking site faster than the time she spent capping off my fire. Makes my Blood boil.:bang::shooter:
PS, for the gas installers on here, a question please what should I use to reseal it, Fire-cem still available? Also the silver tape around the flue joins is loose, what do I need for that? Do I need a registered installer to re-connect my gas fire? I have always done my own plumbing, and I own and can use a manometer and test the flue with smoke matches, but what does the law say these days?:dunno:
thanks..
British gas engineer came to do our Boiler service a few weeks back,while my father in law house sat for us as we were at work. He says she disappeared into the loft to check the flue as it passes through to a rooftop vent, then she came back down, threw a smoke bomb in the fire place (nothing to do with the boiler, that's in a cupboard on the landing) and then she went back up. Five minutes later she came back down, capped off the fire and stuck a note on it saying it was dangerous. When I got home, I rang em to ask why. Apparently, where the flue changes from the pre-cast flue blocks to the steel flue, the cement has all cracked up and it was leaking flue gases into the loft. FAIR ENOUGH BUT I may not be a registered Gas installer but I do know that she could have re-sealed the Flue a F**cking site faster than the time she spent capping off my fire. Makes my Blood boil.:bang::shooter:
PS, for the gas installers on here, a question please what should I use to reseal it, Fire-cem still available? Also the silver tape around the flue joins is loose, what do I need for that? Do I need a registered installer to re-connect my gas fire? I have always done my own plumbing, and I own and can use a manometer and test the flue with smoke matches, but what does the law say these days?:dunno:
thanks..
I think your be best to get some one who knows what there doing with gas fires as with the flue you are dealing with burnt gas and unburnt gas /carbon monoxide and needs testing properly
Sorry can not help with this one on here
no worries, My ex-father in law (sadly deceased) was a plumber, so I know enough plumbing to get by, but as you say posting something on here could be misused by a muppet.
Well....we had a guy come and regas it before Xmas, he thought that was the problem. However it is still losing a bit of pressure i.e. 1.0bar last thing at night, 0.9 / 0.8 in the morning, not as much as before.
Do you reckon your fix would cure that? To be honest I have never had the front off the boiler but if you reckon changing that part will be the answer then I'll give it a spin
Do you reckon your fix would cure that? To be honest I have never had the front off the boiler but if you reckon changing that part will be the answer then I'll give it a spin
Jono your a very Bad Boy
you did the tests your self I.e closing off the flow return with the boiler off
fill it to 2 bar and you told us when you come home there was water out the copper pip on the other side of wall
"the pressures relief valve pipe" ....................................
right that Valve should only open a 3 Bar and as the boiler was off and set a 2 bar there should of not been any water come out that pipe what so ever
as for having a guy regasing it that's bollocks on his part the only thing i can put that down to is her reset the pressure in the expansion vessel
Now that would only come in to play when the water was getting heated up
and as the term expansion vessel it only compensates the pressure on a rise form heating the water
but we have all ready tested it when off and cold and the pressure relief valve passed water
i hope this helps you
@tu*
you did the tests your self I.e closing off the flow return with the boiler off
fill it to 2 bar and you told us when you come home there was water out the copper pip on the other side of wall
"the pressures relief valve pipe" ....................................
right that Valve should only open a 3 Bar and as the boiler was off and set a 2 bar there should of not been any water come out that pipe what so ever
as for having a guy regasing it that's bollocks on his part the only thing i can put that down to is her reset the pressure in the expansion vessel
Now that would only come in to play when the water was getting heated up
and as the term expansion vessel it only compensates the pressure on a rise form heating the water
but we have all ready tested it when off and cold and the pressure relief valve passed water
i hope this helps you
@tu*