• Welcome to the new B.I.R.D. Forum. Please be sure to read the "New Member / New Registered ? Please Read" thread in the Coffee Shop. This contains some important information. To become a full member ( £5.90 a year ) simply click on your user name near the top on the right I hope you enjoy the new site ................ Jaws ( John )

Bogging Down!

  • Thread starter Stiggy-xx-
  • Start date
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Stiggy-xx-

Guest
Cheers noobie, I will have to check that other area out then and this diaphragm that splits, where is that normaly residing and is it an expensive or hard to aquire part?:bang:
 

noobie

Clueless in most things
I believe it's a relatively easy part but unsure as I've never had this issue but some have so hopefully they will be along soon

as to prices then jaws motorcycles might have these in or david silver spares, these are not rare parts and around £25 I think?
 

CBRDEAN0

Registered User
I believe it's a relatively easy part but unsure as I've never had this issue but some have so hopefully they will be along soon

as to prices then jaws motorcycles might have these in or david silver spares, these are not rare parts and around ?25 I think?

Part number is 16953-ML0-034

JAWS usually has them but they are closer to ?45 now

16953ml0014-cover-set-cock_medium16953MF2881-01_e92a.jpg
 
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Stiggy-xx-

Guest
So, if this diaphragm has split, how does that affect acceleration over double figures?R#?
 

Jaws

Corporal CockUp
Staff member
Moderator
Club Sponsor
It reduces the fuel flow dramatically
So tootling around you get enough fuel flowing
Go large and start using a decent amount of gas and the carbs run dry

The engine fails.. By the time you have costed to a stop there has been enough time for a drop of gas to get back in the float bowls and allows you to start the engine again
 
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Stiggy-xx-

Guest
aha, that sounds exactly the same as what I have experienced!!
so I will now have a fun time draining the tank and taking the petcock apart, yay, what fun I am having h1d1ng2
 

CBRDEAN0

Registered User
aha, that sounds exactly the same as what I have experienced!!
so I will now have a fun time draining the tank and taking the petcock apart, yay, what fun I am having h1d1ng2

Why drain the tank ?

IIRC you can just switch off the fuel tap and change the diaphragm with a full tank.
 

Jaws

Corporal CockUp
Staff member
Moderator
Club Sponsor
As Deano says, absolutely no need to drain the tank
The petcock can simply be turned off.
The diaphragm is below the petcock so once turned of the diaphragm is isolated :)

It is quite an easy job
 
B

bishbosh

Guest
well I had a butchers under the tank and everything looks attached and without splits, so the next dry day I will be taking the tank off to have a look at the air filter and whatever is in there.:eek:

It may be worth changing that vacuum pipe as although you may not have splits it may have hardened over time and not provide a good seal - have had this issue myself.
 

Lee337

Confused Poster
Club Sponsor
As Jaws has said, it's an easy job. I've had to do it twice, not because the second one failed, but I managed to fold the diaphragm when I fitted it, so it only lasted around 7 months before it failed again.

As long as you take your time, the most difficult and time consuming part is removing & refitting the tank. Just remember to turn the fuel tap back on before bolting up the tank (I speak for experience here).
 

Jaws

Corporal CockUp
Staff member
Moderator
Club Sponsor
LOL Lee !!
Believe me, you are FAR from alone with that

The amount of calls I have I have had over the years..

Just done a service, bike ran fine for about 3 or 3 minutes now it will not start


And I include a certain well known Honda main dealership in that too !!
 
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Stiggy-xx-

Guest
Following on from this post, bike seems to be running ok if I don't give it a fistful after reaching 3 figures, so Mr Jaws do you have a link for your petcock repair kit, please? :yo:
 
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Stiggy-xx-

Guest
It did have cans on from an Fi but it now has the correct cans on @tu*
 
C

CBRYZF

Guest
Update

Did you get yours sorted as mine has had similar problems for over 2 years( only about 4,000 miles) . It's like you hit a rev limiter at around 6500 revs in top. I've changed the petcock diaphragm, sprayed all relevant electrical connectors with acf50 and stripped,cleaned, setup and replaced any parts needed in the carbs. I do have two coils on order to try those and am about to check the side stand switch as suggested earlier in in this thread.

Any answers to this frustrating issue would great fully received.
 

CBRDEAN0

Registered User
Did you get yours sorted as mine has had similar problems for over 2 years( only about 4,000 miles) . It's like you hit a rev limiter at around 6500 revs in top. I've changed the petcock diaphragm, sprayed all relevant electrical connectors with acf50 and stripped,cleaned, setup and replaced any parts needed in the carbs. I do have two coils on order to try those and am about to check the side stand switch as suggested earlier in in this thread.

Any answers to this frustrating issue would great fully received.

Do you know if the carbs are running stock jets / needles ?

What exhaust is fitted ?

Can you coax it passed the 6500rpm using smaller throttle opening ?
 
C

CBRYZF

Guest
Thank you for your reply,

It is running on stock jets and needles. When I stripped the carbs it had 145,150,150,145 in and two bent needles. It now has 142,145,145,142 and all four needles are straight( 2 Honda replacements)

Standard end cans and Honda injection down pipes with a bunged sensor hole. They did have carb ones on but they rotted so changed them. I thought the original ones may be causing the problem but it was the same with newer pipes on.


No it will not go past this point under gentle acceleration. If you you keep it fully open it will eventually get past it and rev right through but the experience is not nice and potentially harmful to the bike not knowing what the cause is.

I hope these answers help.
 

CBRDEAN0

Registered User
Thank you for your reply,

It is running on stock jets and needles. When I stripped the carbs it had 145,150,150,145 in and two bent needles. It now has 142,145,145,142 and all four needles are straight( 2 Honda replacements)

Standard end cans and Honda injection down pipes with a bunged sensor hole. They did have carb ones on but they rotted so changed them. I thought the original ones may be causing the problem but it was the same with newer pipes on.


No it will not go past this point under gentle acceleration. If you you keep it fully open it will eventually get past it and rev right through but the experience is not nice and potentially harmful to the bike not knowing what the cause is.

I hope these answers help.

Sounds like it is getting too much fuel.

Any chance the needles have had washers put under to lift them ?

Have you also checked the idle jet size ? - they do contribute to fuel delivery all the way up.

Have you checked the pilot screw setting ? - should be 2 1/4 turns out from seated.

Also check that the choke is releasing fully when the lever is pushed in.

What air filter is fitted ?

Another thought - are the air dams fitted in the fairing to stop turbulence getting in the air box ?
 
C

CBRYZF

Guest
Good evening,

The needles came with washers that slide over them as standard I believe and I have put them in as such but no other washers fitted.

Idle jets are all the same,42

I set the pilot screws when I had the carbs off so all at 2 1/4 turns out

The choke mechanism checked over when carb striped and checked for actuation once refitted.

The filter is a standard after market one, not k&n or up rated

The flaps are in situ.

Done a 60 mile run this afternoon which also included mot, done for another year no probes.

I have also replaced the vacuum pipe that feeds the petcock as was very hard on the engine side.

Now I tried being ever so gently on the throttle and at 6250 revs it judders a couple of times and then what I call breaks through. It is a bit more violent on full throttle but same revs. In lower gears the cut out/judder/ Rev limiter feeling is there, but at higher revs and again the same under full throttle or gentle throttle. Approximately between 7,000 and 8,000 revs.

It's definitely a head scratcher that's for sure.
 

CBRDEAN0

Registered User
Good evening,

The needles came with washers that slide over them as standard I believe and I have put them in as such but no other washers fitted.

Idle jets are all the same,42

I set the pilot screws when I had the carbs off so all at 2 1/4 turns out

The choke mechanism checked over when carb striped and checked for actuation once refitted.

The filter is a standard after market one, not k&n or up rated

The flaps are in situ.

Done a 60 mile run this afternoon which also included mot, done for another year no probes.

I have also replaced the vacuum pipe that feeds the petcock as was very hard on the engine side.

Now I tried being ever so gently on the throttle and at 6250 revs it judders a couple of times and then what I call breaks through. It is a bit more violent on full throttle but same revs. In lower gears the cut out/judder/ Rev limiter feeling is there, but at higher revs and again the same under full throttle or gentle throttle. Approximately between 7,000 and 8,000 revs.

It's definitely a head scratcher that's for sure.

Very odd one as you say.

I know it's not mechanically sympathetic but will it freely rev passed the 6500 rpm when in neutral ?

Did you manage the check the float heights when the carbs were in bits ?
 
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