C
CBRYZF
Guest
Not heard of one of those. Where would it reside and what does it look like?
So, as you can tell I'm not sure if one has been fitted.
So, as you can tell I'm not sure if one has been fitted.
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Welcome to the new B.I.R.D. Forum. Please be sure to read the "New Member / New Registered ? Please Read" thread in the Coffee Shop. This contains some important information. To become a full member ( £5.90 a year ) simply click on your user name near the top on the right I hope you enjoy the new site ................ Jaws ( John )
Ok.. straw clutching time.
There are some connectors in a plastic boot under the tank behind the engine. Undo each one, squirt a bit of ACF50 or switch cleaner in each connector and push them together a few times.
I have just remembered an odd ball one too.
Some time ago I had a similar issue.. Customer had rebuild the bike pretty much but it persisted
Much head scratching later and I went back to absolute basics..
Coils leads and plugs were all perfect, so looked up stream from them.
Found two things.. No idea which was the actual problem as I did them both, but reckon it was number two as that was a def physical thing.
1) Although the CDI had been changed the plug connectors were a bit manky
Did the ACF50 thing , plugged in unplugged etc etc a few times
2) I eventually noticed the wire from the pulse generator coil had at some time been either trapped or hit or something.
Although it SEEMED to be just fine, and as we were at the straw grasping stage too, I cut the wire close to the engine and replaced it right up to the connector.
When I cut them I pulled the sheathing off and there it was.. At some time in its life the wire had indeed been pinched and there was an intermittent short !
There are some connectors in a plastic boot under the tank behind the engine. Undo each one, squirt a bit of ACF50 or switch cleaner in each connector and push them together a few times.
I have just remembered an odd ball one too.
Some time ago I had a similar issue.. Customer had rebuild the bike pretty much but it persisted
Much head scratching later and I went back to absolute basics..
Coils leads and plugs were all perfect, so looked up stream from them.
Found two things.. No idea which was the actual problem as I did them both, but reckon it was number two as that was a def physical thing.
1) Although the CDI had been changed the plug connectors were a bit manky
Did the ACF50 thing , plugged in unplugged etc etc a few times
2) I eventually noticed the wire from the pulse generator coil had at some time been either trapped or hit or something.
Although it SEEMED to be just fine, and as we were at the straw grasping stage too, I cut the wire close to the engine and replaced it right up to the connector.
When I cut them I pulled the sheathing off and there it was.. At some time in its life the wire had indeed been pinched and there was an intermittent short !
Sits on the end of the crank just in front of the timing chain
Aftermarket ones tend to be gold coloured and usually have marked on them how much advance is built in
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e143/dpw41285/image.jpg
C
CBRYZF
Guest
Thank you, I shall check these out and let you know. I have had a good look at the Cdi under the seat and changed it for a second hand one and also checked the wiring out but no harm in retracing my steps. Point 2 is one I have not checked at all so will delve in and inspect.
C
CBRYZF
Guest
I shall order a gasket and then check it.
Clayshooter
Registered User
This may not apply to the Bird but is known to cause carburation problems on older VFR's.
On the Carb VFR the 4 carb vents that allow air to flow in and out of the chamber under the diaphragm are joined by rubber tubes, on the end of this tube is a filter (I think Honda call it the "Secondary Air Filter")
If this gets blocked the diaphragms / needles cannot move freely.
Just a thought, not sure if the Bird has a similar system.
On the Carb VFR the 4 carb vents that allow air to flow in and out of the chamber under the diaphragm are joined by rubber tubes, on the end of this tube is a filter (I think Honda call it the "Secondary Air Filter")
If this gets blocked the diaphragms / needles cannot move freely.
Just a thought, not sure if the Bird has a similar system.
C
CBRYZF
Guest
Good evening clay shooter and all who have helped so far.
The bird carb is exactly the same system in that respect and they are clear. They are a fault area for the bird too but not my one.
Since last messaging my life has gone super sonic but I have stripped down the wiring for the magneto and pulse generator and all is well, wiring as far as I can see is fine around the power commander/ ecu box under the rear seat cowling.
I took the engine cover off and the timing plate looks original and I also stripped and checked out the cct rewound the spring and refitted.
The issue is still there.
I can't work out how to add photos as I took some of the plate and wires. Perhaps someone can help me with that, which is most probably an easier issue to solve!!!
The bird carb is exactly the same system in that respect and they are clear. They are a fault area for the bird too but not my one.
Since last messaging my life has gone super sonic but I have stripped down the wiring for the magneto and pulse generator and all is well, wiring as far as I can see is fine around the power commander/ ecu box under the rear seat cowling.
I took the engine cover off and the timing plate looks original and I also stripped and checked out the cct rewound the spring and refitted.
The issue is still there.
I can't work out how to add photos as I took some of the plate and wires. Perhaps someone can help me with that, which is most probably an easier issue to solve!!!
C
CBRYZF
Guest
Just read clay shooters post again and Johns too. There are air vent joints and air joints. I have checked these and all clear but there is no filter etc. So there not exactly the same as I wrote a minute or two ago (silly me) I just misread the original message.
noobie
Clueless in most things
C
CBRYZF
Guest
Thank you noobie, think I've got it. Here is a link to try it out.
http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k92/Colint4/Mobile Uploads/image_zpsvrais4gz.jpeg
http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k92/Colint4/Mobile Uploads/image_zpsvrais4gz.jpeg
C
CBRYZF
Guest
I've been a little busy recently but I have been using the bird to and from work and so long as I don't go over the 6500 revs mark all is great. If I venture up and over the 6500 then I'm ready for the jolt/jolts and it then carries on through. Just riding slower means never to be affected by the problem which is of course safer but not quite as much fun.
Well and truly lost on where to go next but shall keep thinking. If anyone thinks of anything else then I'd appreciate your thoughts. Thank you to all who have had contributed so far.
Well and truly lost on where to go next but shall keep thinking. If anyone thinks of anything else then I'd appreciate your thoughts. Thank you to all who have had contributed so far.
Have you tried removing the power commander?
Should be straightforward enough, at worst you will eliminate as a possible cause.
:dunno:
Should be straightforward enough, at worst you will eliminate as a possible cause.
:dunno:
C
CBRYZF
Guest
Hi andybirdless,
Thank you for your reply. I'm pretty sure mine doesn't have a power commander. Everything is standard. This is unless I have misunderstood what a power commander is?
Thank you for your reply. I'm pretty sure mine doesn't have a power commander. Everything is standard. This is unless I have misunderstood what a power commander is?
noobie
Clueless in most things
I think this maybe adding to the confusion re power commander
C
CBRYZF
Guest
I see noobie that makes sense. Different peoples wording for certain parts. I try and reply to people's posts as they write them to try and avoid confusion!!!!!! Best I tensions and all that! I do only have the standard ecu brain box.
Just a thought. How does the rev limiter work on a Bird? Maybe something to do with that?