BASTID sump plug

EVSSV · 25/4/12

i fekin hate sum plugs...:bang:. i managed to strip the threads on my b12.....dl1000....me old xjr12 i had....think i did me zrx12 one but px`ed that so will never know...only one i aint stripped is me sv1000 one......i hope i dont get ur problum with me bird....jus try longer bar on the wrench...good luck...@tu*

Squag1 · 25/4/12

Life is just too short -

I would go with the ice treatement though.
Sometimes giving it a small tighten might break the joint then open it.
BUT WITH GREAT CAUTION.

molecular structure of water/salt different to oil.

What happened good old "penetrating oil" does what is says on the tin.
and I don't mean Vaseline.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Penetrating_oil

Pity the young couple who didn't know the difference between Vaseline and putty.

All the glass in their windows fell out8rfl@c7u8

(I was leaving anyway)

Rheumatoid · 26/4/12

lumpy said:
a bit disjointed as the ally will shrink more than the steel bolt making it tighter.

presumably thats a good thing. its the ally surrounding the bolt that will shrink away. The hole will not shrink - retard :-0)

Rheumatoid · 26/4/12

lumpy said:
so it will shrink bigger? And I'm the retard? The diameter of the hole will get smaller as it gets cooler and thus tightening the grip on the bolt, heating it will expand it and make it bigger.

the bolt will shrink and the hole will grow I reckon. The ally making up the hole will shrink away to make the hole bigger. p0pc0rn41

ramo · 26/4/12

warm

just warm the ally around it,

I would think this would expand more than the steel plug,

I would not give it a lot of heat or freeze it

if that fails, bite the bullet

and ask your Mrs , she might have more of a grip than a banker8rfl@

andyBeaker · 26/4/12

phoned the helpful local shop (Ural at Brands) who said 'bring it down when you have a new plug and washer, bring your own oil and filter as well and I will put some heat on it, get it out, change the oil and filter all for the price of a pint!!'

aren't some people nice@tu*@tu*

David Silver next stop.....

Anyway, applying logic here....... as I ride through the winter I can see this happening again. Soooooooo...................... would it make sense to

stick a fibre washer in between the plug and the washer to provide a barrier between the metals or will this simply accelerate the ingress of mucky stuff?
grease the whole lot up on assembly??

andyBeaker · 26/4/12

Never heard of Dowty seals - can see thast there are about 10 different types - which would you suggest and what size? I know the plug is M14?? Item number 260693338898??

See, you can be helpful when you put your mind to it Lumpy;-0))

AV8TOR · 26/4/12

Why not just drill a hole in the sump & drain out the old oil then simply cover the new hole with blu tac or tape job done.

After all its not my bike @tu*

andyBeaker · 26/4/12

While this is hopefully going to be sorted by the garage, as is always the case with pain in the arse irritations ideas keep running throgh the head...

ring spanner being welded onto the sump bolt to get purchase?
can the sump be removed easily or is it manifold off and other crap? Sure the bolt would be easier to deal with on a loose sump
Aviator, despite the general knobishness of your post;-0)), I can't imagine it would be overly difficult to put another drain plug in somewhere if the worst comes to the worst
more to the point, saw a beautiful old 1930s Duesenberg (spelling:dunno on the box the other day - to drain the oil all you had to do was turn a beautifully sculpted lever through 45 degrees. A stunningly simple and beautiful piece of engineering. 'Progress' is not all it is cracked up to be

andyBeaker · 26/4/12

and having reread all the posts I am off to Halfords tomorrow for one of their Pro impact driver kits.

Can't believe I have been tinkering with cars and bikes for 35 years and never needed one before.

Also watched that tall bloke on wheeler Dealers removing a bolt this afternoon by applying heat to a bolt. Sure I can do that with my plumbing blowlamp if needed.

the_sad_punk · 26/4/12

http://www.ebay.ie/itm/Wynns-Produc...se-Maintenance-Spray-400ml-Aero-/110754669578
Had results with this gear.
My advice is to hit the nut a smack with a ball peen hammer with a socket on it. Not too hard mind you, we dont want cracks.
Then blast it with this gear.
If it doesnt loosen after this id heat it with a weak flame (use a jet lighter or chefs burner) till just before going a dull red and hose it with the gear.
It should come loose after several cycles of this. Torque it gently, tight then loose, try to make a space if you get me and hit it again with the spray, repeat. Heat, cold and patience is the key here, not big leverage or impacts.

andyBeaker · 27/4/12

You can all stop worrying as it is now loose.

Sorry Lumps, impact driver and a six faced 17mm socket.

Problem was getting worse as the bolt head was beginning to get rounded after numerous failed attempts. even managed to get an ancient carpenters twin screw clamp attached to belt with a hammer and that didn't budge it. Clamp stayed fitted nicely but still the bugger wouldn't move.

Take the point about impact driver - think this worked as it was forcing the socket onto the bolt head rather than applying a twisting force as a spanner or ratchet does which was just making said implement slide off. All this aggro over a ?2.20 part.

Bummer is that the new sump plug hasn't arrived yet so can't do the oil and filter change:bang:

Thanks afor all the good suggestions, and to Av8tor as well.:-0)

Tinytim · 27/4/12

40 odd posts before someone mentions how they'd apply torque to the socket/bolt. By pulling hard and harder and harder on it ? or just a firm/sharp tap on the T-bar with an 'ammer- it can't not fekkin go . Jezus wept.

andyBeaker · 27/4/12

Tinytim said:
40 odd posts before someone mentions how they'd apply torque to the socket/bolt. By pulling hard and harder and harder on it ? or just a firm/sharp tap on the T-bar with an 'ammer- it can't not fekkin go . Jezus wept.

May the engineering gods smile on you always and you never have anything seize.

If you do, please do not hesitate to contact me for advice - it's really easy to give when you aren't there dealing with a real life problem like, for instance, dealing with a steel bolt seized in a sump when it would be very easy to damage the sump by applying too much force.

Then again, what do I know. Other than a firm/sharp tap on the T-bar with a hammer didn't shift it like every other method tried before resorting to impact driver.

Makes me wonder why manufacturers go to the trouble of making repair kits to deal with problems like this. Can't imagine they ever sell any.

Becania · 27/4/12

The right cylinder on my GS has had the same spark plug in for about 4 years cos the fu##ing thing has seized in. Took it to a local shop and they rounded the flats trying to get it out.
Will have to be machined out so will leave it until it starts to miss fire or whatever a knackered plug does

andyBeaker · 28/4/12

Becania said:
The right cylinder on my GS has had the same spark plug in for about 4 years cos the fu##ing thing has seized in. Took it to a local shop and they rounded the flats trying to get it out.
Will have to be machined out so will leave it until it starts to miss fire or whatever a knackered plug does

With a bit of luck TinyTim will be along soon and tell you how to sort it.

As for me....... have you tried putting a load of pentrating oil down the bore or similar?? Is gravity on your side for this i.e. is bore verticalish?? If so I would have thought it would find it's own way through? Not sure about the layout on these German motors, other than Me109F.

Becania · 28/4/12

It's the up cylinder when on the side stand, my tame mechanic at the local shop says it is a heat thing cos they are air cooled. 1150 boxer is one of the best motors ever made let down by absolutely crap finishing. As is the rest of the bike.

andyBeaker · 28/4/12

Becania said:
It's the up cylinder when on the side stand, my tame mechanic at the local shop says it is a heat thing cos they are air cooled. 1150 boxer is one of the best motors ever made let down by absolutely crap finishing. As is the rest of the bike.

OK, I see the plug recess is 'on it's side' so it won't hold penertrating oil. Bit left field, but are you able to lay the bike on it's side to allow penetating fluid to sit in the bore and do it's stuff, maybe having got the engine hot first??

Quick look on Google states that the OEM plug spanner in the toolkit is the recommended route as opposed to a generic plug spanner - but I guess you probably know that:bang:.

JAWS has played around with GS's in the past so may have some tips:dunno:

silverfox.xx · 28/4/12

GS, head off turn upside down, soak in plusgas.

or get a second hand head from motoworks or james sherlock.

Simples....

Now, back to the stump plug...

Lumpy, re freezing, you are right and I was wrong.. heat outside, cool inner. :blush:

Andybird.... when you attempt it.... can we watch it on U tube.

andyBeaker · 28/4/12

silverfox.xx said:
Now, back to the stump plug...

Lumpy, re freezing, you are right and I was wrong.. heat outside, cool inner. :blush:

Andybird.... when you attempt it.... can we watch it on U tube.

I think the heat/freezing thing may have been a dead end. With oil in the sump heat transfer would have nullified any effect?? Probably just as well warming the motor up.

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