BASTID sump plug

[andyBeaker]

So I thought, get in from work, crack the sump plug off and drain the oil while it is still hot.

Can I get the bloody thing undone even with a really good fitting socket and a decent tap on the wrench with a big hammer.

Left it to cool down and the bugger still won't move. Tried turning the other way and not a sausage.

Sprayed it with WD40 in the absence of any other ideas and leaving until tomorrow now.

I did the last oil change and know the bolt was tightened to the correct torque and a proper washer used.

Any tips before I, embarrasingly, resort to the local bike shop to remove the poxy thing.

 

[163phil]

Bigger hammer:dunno:

 

[ianrobbo1]

tomorrow morning instead of your usual croissant and coffee, pop down the gym and build a muscle, or try some readybrek, :-0)

 

[Gary Bartley]

You could try using a longer extension or bar on the socket to give you some more leverage. I had a problem with the engine sprocket nut on the CBR6 a while back and had to get the loan of an impact driver to shift it. They work quite well too.

 

[robsbird]

use the torque wrench you did it up with just set a bit higher to undo then your know your not going to rip the pressing out the sump

@tu*

 

[Jaws]

See this a lot.. folk replacing the ally sump plug washer with a copper one.. Steel, copper, and ally make a lovely combo when you add salt water !!

Canna make any suggestions but can warn agin using too much of a hammer..
Seen the sump plug boss broken clean out of a sump before now !

 

[Squag1]

Could you elaborate on the physics please - steel Cu etc - oh
all knowing one :bow:

 

[silverfox.xx]

Let it go completely cold, even warm the ally may be expanding and nipping the bolt. Doubt if plusgas or WD will work, if oil can't get out that can't get in.

All a garage will do is what you can do, heating the alloy will expand it and tighten it. I would try a longer bar on a hex socket, not a multi spline socket.

 

[Jaws]

Could you elaborate on the physics please - steel Cu etc - oh
all knowing one :bow:

It is the same issue as the old idea of using copper slip on aluminium parts

All the components are inert, UNTIL you add something very commonly found all over Ireland and the UK.. Salty slush !!

Suddenly you have some very active components.. A nice bit of electrolysis gets going and the aluminium acts as the cathode.. Starts to 'shed' and the migration to the anode ( the copper ) causes the binding problem*

The steel just adds a new dimension to the problem by ensuring the chemical reaction remains active for longer

*
If you have ever worked on something that has had copper slip used on it but then remained unfettled for a long time, you will have noted how sticky and err well sort of ball'y the copper slip has become

That is cos it is full of alum particles

 

[andyBeaker]

It is the same issue as the old idea of using copper slip on aluminium parts

All the components are inert, UNTIL you add something very commonly found all over Ireland and the UK.. Salty slush !!

Suddenly you have some very active components.. A nice bit of electrolysis gets going and the aluminium acts as the cathode.. Starts to 'shed' and the migration to the anode ( the copper ) causes the binding problem*

The steel just adds a new dimension to the problem by ensuring the chemical reaction remains active for longer

*
If you have ever worked on something that has had copper slip used on it but then remained unfettled for a long time, you will have noted how sticky and err well sort of ball'y the copper slip has become

That is cos it is full of alum particles

Thanks for the physics lesson (which actually is incorrect in at least one error by the way).

Now, how do I get the effing thing out

 

[silverfox.xx]

What length wrench have you tried? Meant socket wrench. :-0)

 

[silverfox.xx]

Just a maybe thought, the freezer aerosol that plumbers use to freeze pipes, once the engine is cold, spray the area with 'freezer' it may just 'shrink' the materials enough... dunno wild shot and I am prepared to get shot down.

 

[AndySlater]

If you really want to be geeky its all to do with this..........

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galvanic_corrosion

 

[ianrobbo1]

. I'll stick to my Dowty seals methinks

shock horror!!! SOMETHING the fat ol arse bandit didn't swap for SS!!

:-0) wonders will they never cease :dunno:

 

[silverfox.xx]

maybe shrinking the ally sump to make it tighter on the steel bolt will work enbough to break the seal. Worth a try. I like the idea he tried tightening it a bit more too. Be the twat never used a new washer on it. I'll stick to my Dowty seals methinks

I was thinking that the alloy and or sump bolt shrunk, would make it loose not tight. The alloy would shrink away from the hole and the steel sump bolt would shrink smaller... :dunno: Whereas heat expands both to make them tighter.

 

[Centaur]

Thinking outside the box Andy.

Siphon (or pump) the oil out through the filler and leave the fecker for the next owner!@tu*

 

[Centaur]

Of the conventional....

I prefer using the torque wrench and the freezing spray.

 

[Jaws]

Freezer spray works really well !

 

[Dickiebird]

Clamp the plug in a vice and turn the bike. More leverage that way. Simples ! @tu*

 

[Centaur]

Clamp the plug in a vice and turn the bike. More leverage that way. Simples ! @tu*

8rfl@8rfl@8rfl@