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Zumo to autocom

Wolfie

Wolfie

Is a lunp
what feckin lead do i need??

i have a pro 7 sport, with the all red isolator box (autocom is bike powered)

isolator into aux 2 lead from zumo into isolator too feckin quiet, take speakers out of helmet try against ears, too feckin quiet, all volumes are at 100% on the zumo, take isolator off and get a louder noise, but with inference buzz.

Now isolator has a 3 pole jack from it, but read somewhere than you need a 4 pole lead to go into it, if a 3 pole lead is going in you lose half the volume i read, (cant find the thread again now) and i have a 3 pole lead.

so is the above true or just a pile of shit.

but if i plug the 3 pole lead from the zumo into the np3 socket on the autocom only 3/4 in i get amazing volume but also the interference buzz loud,

so what have i done wrong or is it a case of buying a 4 pole lead. can somebody check what type of lead they have and also what the lead from the isolator to the autocom unit is please.

thanks
 
Tinytim

Tinytim

Registered User
Wolfie said:
what feckin lead do i need??

i have a pro 7 sport, with the all red isolator box (autocom is bike powered)

isolator into aux 2 lead from zumo into isolator too feckin quiet, take speakers out of helmet try against ears, too feckin quiet, all volumes are at 100% on the zumo, take isolator off and get a louder noise, but with inference buzz.

Now isolator has a 3 pole jack from it, but read somewhere than you need a 4 pole lead to go into it, if a 3 pole lead is going in you lose half the volume i read, (cant find the thread again now) and i have a 3 pole lead.

so is the above true or just a pile of shit.

but if i plug the 3 pole lead from the zumo into the np3 socket on the autocom only 3/4 in i get amazing volume but also the interference buzz loud,

so what have i done wrong or is it a case of buying a 4 pole lead. can somebody check what type of lead they have and also what the lead from the isolator to the autocom unit is please.

thanks
Click to expand...

I'm not telling you. :bang:
 
Wolfie

Wolfie

Is a lunp
Wolfie

Wolfie

Is a lunp
robsbird said:
you need part number 1300

http://www.motorcycleinfo.co.uk/index.cfm?fa=contentGeneric.kpxvskahyouozlms&pageId=161241

http://www.motorcycleinfo.co.uk/resources/6795/assets/images/GPS/autocom_zumo_part_1300.gif


could you not do the search ya self ya lazy sodman8um
Click to expand...

ok but why do i want a mic lead into the zumo 400 it has no bluetooth or phone connection, so i dont need that bit, but 1308 , ie the 4pole lead looks the part, but then i would have a 4 pole lead going into a 3 pole isolator so that would lose a connection would it not??
 
R

robsbird

red ones are faster
i think your fine you just have to leave the mic lead out is the box the need to get @tu*
 
Tinytim

Tinytim

Registered User
4 pole lead

Well, until Robsbird said what part number I'd have said you need part number 1314..which is a 4 pole lead complete with the little black box...so it aint just a lead on its own .

I have just bought one for the Bird as i was getting the probs with volume like you say on my Active 7. Phoned Autocom and they said yea, this is what you want it's only 20-odd quid so I bought it..When I got the bastid they'd fekkin billed me nearly 40 bastid quid...20 odd, was 28, plus fekkin VAT plus P&P.

Well, I needed another one for the GS and there was one on Evil Bay last night when you asked. I knew you wouldn't bid if I asked but there's other coonts on here other than you that would ...so I couldn't say owt could I. :-0)

Anyrode..I just won it for 8 quid including P&P :yo:

So, probably I'm wrong if Robsbird has said summat different..so best thing is tomorrow morning ring Autocom tell them ya problem, the system you got and what do you need. They are very helpful. Write the part numbers down and tell them you aint ordering yet cos you're a tight coont. Then have a look on Evil bay ..There's someone on there what's bought a job lot of Autocom stuff and their going at very fair prices too.
 
MAG man

MAG man

Registered User
I recommend contacting Paul : paul.barrett@autocom.co.uk He was very helpful to me back in May this year.

My solution worked for my setup. Pro-7 Sport and Zumo 660; both bike powered. I also have the bluetooth module bike powered.

Ensure your Zumo is running the latest software. There was a fix recently to ensure clearer phone conversations, there had been a very pronounced echo for the call recipient prior to the fix.

I also found that using in-ear custom moulded ear plugs with built in speakers have made the most improvement with volume issues, but it's not a cheap route to take.
 
Wolfie

Wolfie

Is a lunp
worked out why it is quiet using the isolator i have,

the music is only coming out of 1 ear, so in effect i am losing half the volume, speech and directions etc are through both ears and loud enough.

cheers for the email addy will get one of to him today.
 
ScottyUK

ScottyUK

Filtering Through
Read Only
Paul's a top fella. I had a problem with a work phone plugging into my Autocom. After running through the issues he worked out a solution and made up the cables (one for my work colleage) for a sensible price.

Is he still there? I thought all the old Autocom crew got shown the door after the takeover/merger?
 
Jaws

Jaws

Corporal CockUp
Staff member
Moderator
Club Sponsor
Oh dear...
When I installed the set up on the replacement Bird I had already used the Bluetooth dongle on the GS, so went for a hard wire option

I checked the potential differences.. Zero
If there had been a difference I would have used a .2uF coupling c on the line ( 12p ) or if I was rich an Autocom isolator for several quidlets

But as there was no measurable difference I plugged my Zumo straight in to the Autocom..
That was some 4 years ago and it still works..

Sooo should I disconnect it immediately and use part number blah blah, or should I believe my self, my tests, my ability as a fairly well qualified electronics design engineer, or should I just froth at the mouth, fall over backwards and mention wibble to anyone willing to give me a sweety ?

I am going for option three as it is the least contentious 8rfl@

( though to be fair all the other answers are actually correct and safer too ! )
 
Wolfie

Wolfie

Is a lunp
Jaws said:
Oh dear...
When I installed the set up on the replacement Bird I had already used the Bluetooth dongle on the GS, so went for a hard wire option

I checked the potential differences.. Zero
If there had been a difference I would have used a .2uF coupling c on the line ( 12p ) or if I was rich an Autocom isolator for several quidlets

But as there was no measurable difference I plugged my Zumo straight in to the Autocom..
That was some 4 years ago and it still works..

Sooo should I disconnect it immediately and use part number blah blah, or should I believe my self, my tests, my ability as a fairly well qualified electronics design engineer, or should I just froth at the mouth, fall over backwards and mention wibble to anyone willing to give me a sweety ?

I am going for option three as it is the least contentious 8rfl@

( though to be fair all the other answers are actually correct and safer too ! )
Click to expand...

ah but to get the volume outta the thing the lead from the zumo is only 3/4 in the autocom, and me with oh feck it has electricity arrrgghhhh knows that aint right!!.
 
MAG man

MAG man

Registered User
I use the bluetooth module to connect the phone with the zumo via the autocom unit. Works very well for me and my setup.
 
Wolfie

Wolfie

Is a lunp
MAG man said:
I use the bluetooth module to connect the phone with the zumo via the autocom unit. Works very well for me and my setup.
Click to expand...

yeah but my zumo and autocom aint talking to each other loud enough, nothing to do with the phone , (aint got that far yet)
 
Tinytim

Tinytim

Registered User
That many fekkin numbers..

Wolfie said:
yeah but my zumo and autocom aint talking to each other loud enough, nothing to do with the phone , (aint got that far yet)
Click to expand...


That number I said was fekkin wrong...typical :wank: It was No. 1317 what I got off Autocom..and the one I got cheap on e-bay is cheap cos it aint the one I fekkin want:bang: Ya really must ring Autocom...unless ya got a qualification in radio technology...like we all got a fekkin degree in that to save 10 quid Oh how I wish.


:cry:
 
Wolfie

Wolfie

Is a lunp
Tinytim said:
That number I said was fekkin wrong...typical :wank: It was No. 1317 what I got off Autocom..and the one I got cheap on e-bay is cheap cos it aint the one I fekkin want:bang: Ya really must ring Autocom...unless ya got a qualification in radio technology...like we all got a fekkin degree in that to save 10 quid Oh how I wish.


:cry:
Click to expand...

they never answered the feckin phone, or replied to my email, will try again tomorrow, so which top secret not wanted lead did you buy then??
 
Tinytim

Tinytim

Registered User
Wolfie said:
they never answered the feckin phone, or replied to my email, will try again tomorrow, so which top secret not wanted lead did you buy then??
Click to expand...

Dunno why they haven't answered. Usually fine..be patient and explain what you got, what's not right and they'll tell you what you need , unless ya not a pleb.

me?...Borrox, i got a 1317 lead and box off Autocom last week, but need another for the GS ..so bid and won one on e-bay last fekkin night then looked closer at the picture and it's a 1314 lead:bang::eek:%$fan...Now why the fook are there so many leads I hope they'll explain when I ring them tomorrow. It's a fookin nightmare unless you're a Qualified, time served Radio Tele communications Engineer.. c7u8
 
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