Hi. Read yer request about Bird prices (1997-98?). Got the same age, R [August] 97. Paid 4k for it, no extras, bolt-on bits etc. except for a good quality immobiliser [maybe 200 quidish] and Datatag, thus actual price of maybe 3700. Had 10,017 miles on it, 2 new tyres, superb condition [black]. 2 previous owners, little winter mileage, always garaged. Did (still does) 77ish in 1st, 107ish in 2nd. Got (still does) 47-49ish tut gallon at a steady 60ish (not that I do that speed on the Mway any more) and 42ish at a steadyish 80. Came back from the centre of Windemere to St. Helens East Lancs Road last week at midnight, 77m at an average 95 and got 38-39, even though the 57m on't Mway was done at an average 128. Sparks still seem pretty good (now 18k miles, but usually go at around 16k). So, the bike was at least a pretty reezo one for the price. Very little has gone wrong with it since (apart from severe damage from cars knocking me off twice, but which is a different matter, or the chain snapping in 1st at 4k revs...a little more later on this point).
The list prices in, e.g., MCN ads [97-98] are about 3200-4000, but that the 4k includes lots of extras. Never seen any for as low as 2700. At that price, if the ad prices are fully representative, there are probably some serious faults (but I could be wrong). Do a bike check, e.g. via MCN, for stolen, repairable write-off, finance owing etc. The July 24th issue of MNC has a 2-page feature on the Bird, in particular second-hand ones, inc. remarks from (very) satisfied owners, with typical probs to look out for (not many). The head races are typical (at around 12-15k miles), possibly the clutch plates or chain 'n sprocks. I had to get a new chain at 14.5k, but left it a week or so too long and the thing snapped at 4k revs in 1st gear.....620 quid damage....fuhking ouch, inc. 9 weeks of bikeless existence. Various parts, most especially input shaft and output 1st gear [had to be sent from Japan, 'cause the things have never been heard of to go]. Big welding job on the inside of the crank case cover - really lucky it hadn't snapped the the bolt holes to the engine casing, which would have meant a new engine!. Clutch cover also smashed, also other bits. Really fucking ouch (happened at the top of the Snake Pass....65 miles from home/bike repair shop. Bloke on a sponny new R1 stopped then went home [10m away in Yorkshire] for his bike van and took me 'nt bike all the way tut bike repair shop! [MW Racing, Rainford, Merseyside, 01744 88 5035....top blokes who don't rip ya off). What a guy...gave im 40 quid and a bottle of real Macoy absinth from the CR for the good Samaritan help, but which he didn't want to take, but made im take it anyway. SO, check the chain and sprockets; and in any case get yersel a Scottoiler. Doubles the life oif the chain (even more maybe), improves the performance, gives a constant and even amount of lube, no fling, and only needs a 50ml top-up every 500m or so. Thus, have a good look at the condition of the rear sprocket teeth, and what notch the chain is on.
Have a feel of the underside of the lower fairing for scratching scars. Head races usually go at 12-15k miles. Check for it. Not too expensive, about 150 quidish inc. labour. Check clutch plates. Check for corrosion on ally bits, esp fork legs. Look for missing placky screws on inside area of control panel and stuff like that, as they often get lost when taking this area apart. Look to see if the fairing and related bits fit flush, esp round tank area (mine got bent up by a car that splattered me, and it was easy to tell the frame was bent by this lack of alignment of said bits). Look at the end of the cans for brown residue....bad combustion etc. (mate of a mate's got one and had this prob when he bought his 2nd hand).
The said MCN article gives a price of 3200 for a good nick R reg....9700m, titanium cans, new tyres, 12 months MOT, Datatag, alarmed, private sale.
Ask a prospective seller for a go on it, leaving yer own bike as insurance. See what it does in the 1st few gears etc. Don't worry if the bike's back end bounces up and down like fuhk over bumps, esp when going fast...it's a design fault....only 500 quidish can sort it with a top class rear shock.
That's about all I can say, especially as I'm a complete mechanical retard. Best of luck and hope ya find a reet good'n at a good proce. You'll love the bike.
PS I only joined the club yesterday, so my name probably won't be on the list. Nickname's either Mezitonka or Aitch.
no fling