Spark plug change

[andyBeaker]

changing the the plugs on FI this morning.

Top down rather than the Haynes 'dismantle the whole bike until only spark plugs left hovering in mid air and then replace' approach.

Think i can remember how to go about it from last time I did this on my old carb Bird:bow:, but i was sure there was a 'how to' guide on here before.

Can't find it now - any ideas where it is??

 

[bmwdumptruck]

I don't recall it being that difficult on the bird. Done mine twice over the years.
Tank off, don't loose the washers off the fuel banjo. Air filter apart, stuff 4 bits of tissue down the throats, then remove the air filter housing. Plugs are pretty accessible compared to some bikes. @tu*

 

[mudplugossa]

I don't recall it being that difficult on the bird. Done mine twice over the years.
Tank off, don't loose the washers off the fuel banjo. Air filter apart, stuff 4 bits of tissue down the throats, then remove the air filter housing. Plugs are pretty accessible compared to some bikes. @tu*

Yep, did mine this way, the way to go@tu*

 

[andyBeaker]

Right, took me just over 2 hours.

Before starting, check the plug spanner is in the Bird toolkit - you WILL need it!! Also check the plug gaps on the new ones - mine were fine. You will need a socket set and cross head screwdrivers.

I would also suggest a LED head torch so you can see what you are doing!!

Best done in the garage - loosen tank, put a towel over the battery then slide tank back. Bit of rope over a joist, tip tank back as far as it will go and tie up. No need to disconnect anything.

Airbox top off.

Coils off - single captive nut can be removed without removal of any plastics with a bit of care.

Air filter out.

'Trumpets' out - 3 captive screws on each.

Air box base out, only need to remove oil breather pipe from the front end. Pull back and tie up ~no need to remove anything else.

One plug at a time - plug cap off - they are a tight fit and a bit of grunt needed to pull off.

Drop the plug spanner down the hole and wiggle about to drop over plug.

Socket over end of plug spanner and ratchet out.

Drop of oil on the new plug thread, into socket and ease down hole. Gently turn until thread engaged - don't force it!! Half s turn is plenty once the thread starts tightening up.

The plug to the right looking forward is much harder to get to than the other three, so start on that one, it only gets better!! You will need an extension bar and maybe even a 'knuckle joint' on the top to get this one out - go behind the frame bar, rest accessed from the tank side of the frame bar.

And, as Mr Haynes says, replacement is removal of above sequence!!

Add one houir if you drop anything inside the plastics.

 

[Vinterceptor]

Before starting,
Best done in the garage - Bit of rope over a joist,

tank back as far as it will go and tie up.

Drop and wiggle about t....

.

DONT do it Andy the recession ain't 'that' bad


Handy to know it can be done without removing the tank

 

[andyBeaker]

Well, knock me down with a feather.

did the 50 mile round commute today, can't believe what a difference a plug and filter change made. Smooth as a smooth thing that has been smothered in baby oil by Lumpy.

Almost felt as good as my old mega mile carb Bird. CCT tomorrow.........

@tu*

 

[Squag1]

http://www.superblackbird.com/maint.cfm

 

[andyBeaker]

http://www.superblackbird.com/maint.cfm

Thanks@tu* - found that last week, unfortunately web page is not working.

 

[fairb]

Just done mine today and found this thread useful. Because of my poor mechanic skills it took me a bit more than 2 hours. (Knackered a few screws holding down the funnels and air box.)

 

[andyBeaker]

glad it helped. Will be easier next time.

Don't know what your tool box is like - if a bit ropey, nip down to Halfords and get 150 Pro socket set for ?99.99 - not quite as good as the one they used to do, but still great value and will give you great quality and pretty much everything you need for the Bird.

Get a big Halfords own brand semi stynthetic bike oil and you will gt a free set pf Halfords Pro screwdrivers as well@tu*

 

[Tribal-Wolf]

The handbook actually tells you how to change them. It says something about unbolting the radiator and getting to them from the front if I recall. Never tried it though.:dunno:

 

[andyBeaker]

The handbook actually tells you how to change them. It says something about unbolting the radiator and getting to them from the front if I recall. Never tried it though.:dunno:

DON'T!!

 

[Jaws]

Amazes me to this day why anyone would suggest removing a rad ! ( unless of course you had shares in a company selling coolent that is ! )

 

[Tribal-Wolf]

I thought it told you to unbolt it and move it down a bit? Anyway I am not bendy enough to try anymore 8rfl@

 

[Jaws]

Dunno what it says to be honest ! Like most of us blokes I only read instructions when all else fails !! :-0)

 

[Tribal-Wolf]

Its summat to read on the toilet 8rfl@

 

[Duck n Dive]

Lift the tank (don't even have to remove it if you don't want to) and go in from the top

Simples @tu*

 

[rovinghawk]

Jeez! What a palaver for four plugs, an air filter & a general cleanout. I see what you all mean about needing tiny hands.

Thanks for the advice everyone- my 'bird had been spluttering & backfiring & I dreaded a call to the garage & the bill it might entail. It's running sweetly now.

RH

Just to add- a magnetic pick-up tool is a godsend.

 

[silverfox.xx]

A bit fiddly but what 3 yearly for most, 24k miles. I always remove the tank as it gives me time to clean the rear of the engine, inspect coolant pipes, look for chafing bl4hbl4h. But then I time mine to do maintenance during the winter months as I don't like seized sump plugs.

 

[Scatman Dave]

I'll be tackling this very soon.