• Welcome to the new B.I.R.D. Forum. Please be sure to read the "New Member / New Registered ? Please Read" thread in the Coffee Shop. This contains some important information. To become a full member ( £5.90 a year ) simply click on your user name near the top on the right I hope you enjoy the new site ................ Jaws ( John )

spacer for my shock,does make a difference

  • Thread starter bignick123
  • Start date
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TonyxxV97

Guest
Well I am completely baffled !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Why on earth would you wanna be messing with that bolt ?

Standard procedure is undo the top nut, reach under, slip the spacer in, re-tighten top nut !
Job done !!!


Morning all,

Question, as the spacer is 6mm, shouldn't you replace the bolt with one thats 6mm longer??
 

Dickiebird

Registered User
no, it's long enough. Mine has 8mm spacer and still conforms to the standard for fasteners. Change it if you feel the need though. Any more than 1.5 threads showing is more than enough



As long as you've got a full nut on the thread, any more is superfluous.
 
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TonyxxV97

Guest
no, it's long enough. Mine has 8mm spacer and still conforms to the standard for fasteners. Change it if you feel the need though. Any more than 1.5 threads showing is more than enough

cheers Lumpy, reading this thread probably will invest in one :-0)
 
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TonyxxV97

Guest
Just ordererd rear spacer and new front springs, probably won't sleep tonight :-0):-0):-0):-0):-0):-0)
 
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TonyxxV97

Guest
it'll probably feel like the difference when you pop new tyres on, not too dramatic but definitely noticeable.

They haven't arrived yet
damn.gif
That means another sleepless night :-0)
 
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TonyxxV97

Guest
New springs and spacer fitted yesturday, yes the spacer definitetly makes the bike turn in quicker, however it wasn't as noticeable as I thought it would be. The front forks feel good but i thought they may of been slightly more stiffer? I had to take out quite a bit of oil about 27 ml each side to get the air gap at 154mm, was surprised to find that the right fork had about 14ml more oil than the left, never had any leaks from the seal, this must of been like this from new :dunno:(i used two syringes with 4mm tube to add or remove the oil to adjust the gap and 20mm plastic conduit marked at 154mm to measure it)bl4hbl4hbl4hbl4hbl4hbl4h


:-0):-0):-0)
 

superblkbird

Registered User
Before i had my blkbird i rode an r1, the bird turns so slowly compared to the Yamaha i really found it a problem. I bought a 6mm shim from Jaws, it took ten minutes to fit and it has given me a much more precise turn , improved my confidence in the front end and as a value for money mod i would say its the best thing you can do on an otherwise standard blackbird. Its not as sharp as a race rep but it just brings more feel and control to the rider
 
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Grutok

Guest
also the wife says she doesnt feel like she is going to slide into me too much when i take it off.

If you prefer the spacer in, then get a "Triboseat", best ?13 I've ever spent.
The wife is happier with it, and when you hit the anchors, your 'nads will thank you!!!!
 

stormer

Registered User
And when you take the spacer out and drop your forks through the yoke....you can touch the road again with both feet.......:yo:
 
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simmyoto

Guest
Not wanting to hijack this thread whilst wishing to keep similar stuff grouped together and at the risk of sounding completely stupid (something i'm quite renowned for acheiving) how does a short ar#e improove the turn in yet remain at a low enough height to at least get one foot down? i'm used to hip swivelling to get the foot down at the lights and tippy toes for when the mrs jumps on already but I can't go too high so the standard idea of the suspension spacer is a no no and would probably be negated by the lowewring link anyway.

My 'bird has an adjustable lowering link fitted in place of the standard bottom mount and is very comfortable for my diminutive stature (diminutive height not width) however I have noticed that the turn in is slower than my old '98 carbed bird and needs a little help at times,

Is the answer to raise the forks through the yokes as previously mentioned (assuming this is not a piss take)?

She does have WP suspension innards on the front fork and a full wp unit for the rear shock so im worried that this obviously expensive set up has been ruined by the last owner who actually fitted the lowering kit.

Any suggestions greatly appreciated! (other than "fook off you short arsed tvat" or "wear platforms" or "get a pushbike" etc) :-0)
 
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simmyoto

Guest
5ft6" tall, would have to check the ride height to be honest, will check it out tonight- where is the best point to measure to on the 'Bird?
 

Tinytim

Registered User
Well I am completely baffled !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Why on earth would you wanna be messing with that bolt ?

Standard procedure is undo the top nut, reach under, slip the spacer in, re-tighten top nut !
Job done !!!

Thought I'd replied to this way back when sorry.

Yea, the penny dropped after you and Wolfie said same...I used a machined spacer from work you see, like a polo mint with a hole. Not a U-shaped spacer that you can just slide in. Didn't realise you used that sort. Bit lazy that :-0).

:-:
 
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Cant Find A User Name

Guest
6mm spacer worked for me .....would recommend doing it :yo:

I'll know better before too long - I fitted the Jaws spacer over winter - but I've only had chance to get out once - which was on 50 miles a new rear tyre to go & make use of the wheel alignment kit at my friendly MOT station.
 

stretchie_

Large Member
I've been umming and ahhing about this.

I REALLY noticed the difference in cornering when I got my BlackBird back from my mate, as I'm used to riding a Blade.

One thing for me is that I saw with Smixx's or Melz's bike up on the centre stand and the rear wheel was still on the ground. Is this just a trade off you have to deal with?

How about dropping the yoke down the forks a couple of mm?

I'm happy(ish) with it as it is, I'll never set the world alight with my cornering prowess but it'd be nicer having a bit more 'flickability'.

What I REALLY want to do is sort the suspension out. (new thread coming up)

If you prefer the spacer in, then get a "Triboseat", best ?13 I've ever spent.
The wife is happier with it, and when you hit the anchors, your 'nads will thank you!!!!

I've got a Tribo on all the bikes. One was already on the first Blade I got and the missus was that impressed with it that it is now a standard. ?10-?15 when you get a new bike and your pillions and your nads will thanks you
 
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Cant Find A User Name

Guest
I've been umming and ahhing about this.


One thing for me is that I saw with Smixx's or Melz's bike up on the centre stand and the rear wheel was still on the ground. Is this just a trade off you have to deal with?

I can still spin the rear wheel on the centre stand with the spacer fitted and a new BT021 in place - the tyre just skims the garage floor - maybe I've just been lucky as the concrete is a little uneven in places :}
 

silverfox.xx

quocunque jeceris stabit
Not wanting to hijack this thread

My 'bird has an adjustable lowering link fitted in place of the standard bottom mount and is very comfortable for my diminutive stature (diminutive height not width) however I have noticed that the turn in is slower than my old '98 carbed bird and needs a little help at times,

Is the answer to raise the forks through the yokes as previously mentioned (assuming this is not a piss take)?

Should have posted in the Help section, but as you're here.. If the back has been lowered and not the front you will want to lower the front as you suggested to re-balance the suspension/ride height.

I gtuess the easiest place to measure it is with the bike on the centre stand on flat ground, std is 25mm ish under the back wheel. 6mm spacer it'll touch the ground. thereby you should be able to work out that every 6mm alteration on (shock length) from standard will be about 25mm under the wheel. (if not thy best way to measure it'll be a good guide)
Take care at the front end that on full suspension travel the mud guard cannot hit the fairing nose cone. Ground clearance will obviously be affected.
I also have WP fork springs 0.95Nmm, and the turn is is so much better than when I had std 0.82Nmm.

TRIBOSEAT USERS, tried that and they look like shitte after a while, so I got some sticky back (DS Taped) 3mm neoprene sheet and cut it to a shape that matches the seat... As it now does not cover the edges where her indoors slides off the seat, its not wearing like the Triboseat did.
 
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