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Immersion tank, economy 7.

Centaur

Site Pedant
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Following a new main element the wife complains the burbling of the tank is waking her up in the night. The tank is obviously in the bedroom and has a louvre door, I assume for ventilation. Am I going to cause a problem if I put a plywood backing on the door to cut down the noise. The tank is very well insulated with a thick solid foam covering. Sensible help initially would be appreciated. :-0)
 

noobie

Clueless in most things
Did you notice what temp the old one was at? If that was okay for her then set the new one at that.

I think they come set at 60c from new?
 

Centaur

Site Pedant
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Tried that.

The water is just hot enough to do. I can comfortably hold my hand under the hot tap whilst it is running. I would not want it any cooler.
 

andyBeaker

Moderator
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As with any cupboard/wardrobe/etc. there needs to be some air circulation to help prevent mould and dampness, particularly if any part of it is on an outside wall. This is going to apply even more in your case as the cupboard is obviously going to be pretty warm.

I think you need to play with the thermostat temperature and try and solve that way rather than blocking the noise.

How old is the tank? I have removed one that was unbelievably scaled up, must have been about 20lbs of scale loose in the bottom. Don't know how a scaled up tank would affect noise levels but I can't imagine it would help?
 

Centaur

Site Pedant
Club Sponsor
As with any cupboard/wardrobe/etc. there needs to be some air circulation to help prevent mould and dampness, particularly if any part of it is on an outside wall. This is going to apply even more in your case as the cupboard is obviously going to be pretty warm.

I think you need to play with the thermostat temperature and try and solve that way rather than blocking the noise.

How old is the tank? I have removed one that was unbelievably scaled up, must have been about 20lbs of scale loose in the bottom. Don't know how a scaled up tank would affect noise levels but I can't imagine it would help?

Tank is about 35 years old, like the house. I am not prepared to turn the thermostat down and turning it up would surely exacerbate the problem. The cupboard is on a North wall but what if I only shut the door during the night? :dunno:
 

stormer

Registered User
Wouldn't it be more sensible to investigate the cause of the "burbling" noise first, checking for air ingress and air vent problems...:dunno:
 

Centaur

Site Pedant
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Thanks Stormer.

Wouldn't it be more sensible to investigate the cause of the "burbling" noise first, checking for air ingress and air vent problems...:dunno:

Any more details, Stormer. Being a bungalow there have always been problems with hot water flow. If the hot tap in the bathroom is turned on at the same time as the kitchen we get an airlock which has to be cleared by forcing mains cold water back up the system to the hot water tank, The hot water tank was obviously drained to fit the new element. I think you have hit the nail on the head! What to do about it though? :dunno:
 

andyBeaker

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Any more details, Stormer. Being a bungalow there have always been problems with hot water flow. If the hot tap in the bathroom is turned on at the same time as the kitchen we get an airlock which has to be cleared by forcing mains cold water back up the system to the hot water tank, The hot water tank was obviously drained to fit the new element. I think you have hit the nail on the head! What to do about it though? :dunno:

35 year old tank might be the problem? Bound to be some, if not loads, scale build up in both the tank and maybe associated pipe work? Being an expert on such mattersh1d1ng2, replacing a hot water cylinder on a like for like basis is pretty straightforward, dare I say a DIY job...

As for the airlock problem, that sounds bizarre. Might be solved by taking seperate supply pipes from the tank to the bathroom and kitchen ..... Which could either be very simple by way of adding a flange to the tank or really difficult depending on how the current pipe work is installed.

Either way there should not be any bubbling when an immersion is on; yes, they do make some noise but it is minimal and certainly not bubbling unless it is turned up too high.

Have a good hunt round and see if there are any pipes that have an angle on them that could trap air. If you find any give them a shake and see what happens, and see if there is enough play in the pipe work to allow them to be wedged into a better angle. However, there needs to be somewhere for the air to get in....... Is the cold water tank as high as it can be? Any height increase will give advantage..... And again this is a straightforward DIY job. Not saying this will solve the bubbling issue, but it might, and it would probably assist if not solve the weird two tap thing you describe. Which sounds like air being sucked down the vent back to the cold water tank? Which might be due to insufficient head (pressure) in the hot water supply fry the tank.

The cupboard will be fine in terms of mould if you ventilate it during the day and close at night, but personally I feel you need to eliminate the cause rather than cover it up. It's like turning the radio up in the car when the brake pads have worn through.

Sorry for the rambling approach.....just trying to think what i would be doing in your position:-0)
 

Centaur

Site Pedant
Club Sponsor
We are one of four almost identical bungalows, Andy. All have the same problem as a low pitched roof means, although the cold water tank is in the attic, there is not much head. I checked inside the tank while replacing the element and it is very clean. A good blast through the hot water system with the main cold water may sort out the problem. I will give it a try soon. :-0)
 

andyBeaker

Moderator
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It does sound like the low head is the problem with the taps. Both taps on effectively lets the water out of the pipe work faster than it can be replaced which sucks air in down the vent.

As above a combi or alternatively replacing the hot water system with a pressurised set up. Struggling past that:dunno:

Thinking out loud, Just a thought and I have no idea if a) this would work and b) whether such a thing exists. A one way valve in the vent that would let water and air out when needed I.e 'up' but prevent air being drawn down? Would still have a low flow rate but would prevent air being drawn in, which in itself will severely restrict the flow rate.:dunno:

It is a bastard when there is an issue that is irritating and would need a disproportionate amount of money , work and disruption to sort.:cry:
 

Centaur

Site Pedant
Club Sponsor
It does sound like the low head is the problem with the taps. Both taps on effectively lets the water out of the pipe work faster than it can be replaced which sucks air in down the vent.

As above a combi or alternatively replacing the hot water system with a pressurised set up. Struggling past that:dunno:

Thinking out loud, Just a thought and I have no idea if a) this would work and b) whether such a thing exists. A one way valve in the vent that would let water and air out when needed I.e 'up' but prevent air being drawn down? Would still have a low flow rate but would prevent air being drawn in, which in itself will severely restrict the flow rate.:dunno:

It is a bastard when there is an issue that is irritating and would need a disproportionate amount of money , work and disruption to sort.:cry:

Fortunately it doesn't keep me awake, just the wife! 8rfl@ As it was quiet before I want to get back to that state of affairs. :-0)
 
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