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HID startup delay relay

Oldbull

Registered User
and dont forget to turn the light off when you go to bed ....











put a swich on it ffs, there is enough battery infidelities on the bird as it is without adding to them :dunno:
 

noobie

Clueless in most things
I was in contact with an experienced "septic" last week and he reckons replacing the switches is doable without removing the tank/airbox etc as you can get enough slack on the throttle cables from the adjusters.

Based on that I've just bought an old carb RH switch off ebay.

Once installed, if I find that that I forget the light or I'm just not happy with it then I'll go back to the time delay relay.

Cheers for the comments above. @tu*

I don't think the switch or the light is the problem..your memory on the other handg0551p
 

ScottyUK

Filtering Through
Read Only
Oh bollox !! That was a waste of 1.5 hours :

Removed screen and lower dash covers. Traced the wires from switch. Removed various cable ties and opened the plastic wrap to get to connector.
Removed original and inserted the replacement switch's connector to test it before installation. Spend 5 mins double checking things as the ignition was not working. Make an educated guess that it's due to the lug pin being an earth and then prove this off by using a small piece of wire. Replacement switch operates fine.

Loosen the throttle cable adjuster as much as possible and then open up the existing switch. Spend 15 mins trying to see if I can steal enough slack to disconnect them. I can't. :cry: Put everything back the way it was (note - it's easier to remove the brake switch and put the cables on than try and do them in place.)

On my bike I'd need to lift the tank and air filter housing to get to the other end of the throttle cables and I don't have pipe clamps.

If you're planning on doing this then it's probably worth checking what slack you can get on the the throttle before doing anything else.

As mentioned above it's certainly a plug and play solution. On the Fi switches (i.e. without a light selector switch), the plug connector simply has a short loop to send the light's feed back out so that they're always on.

So I either buy pipe clamps (probably worth it so I can do more on the bike e.g. filter change etc) or I get the time delay relay which would be straight forward.

The former's probably the better option but I'll also need to take a brave pill to remove the tank the first time.
 
N

number47uk

Guest
Don't need pipe clamps to work under the tank. Remove the seat; undo the 2 bolts at the back of the tank and pull out the clips, one each side from the fairing. Pull the tank backwards until it releases from the front U bracket; lift the back of the tank and put the 2 bolts back loose. Lift front of tank up so rear bracket is now resting against the 2 bolts and support the front of the tank to hold it up. I use a length of wood others use a spanner and some use a bungee to hold it to the grab rail at the back of the seat. Air filter box can now be accessed. It really is easy. Mike.
 

ScottyUK

Filtering Through
Read Only
I should complete this thread by saying I followed the above advice, lifted the front of the tank and completed the installation.

All works well apart from it seems the very late 'birds need the pilot/tail lights on to prime and start. It seems to be a HISS thing.

That's fine with me. I just switch to side lights rather than off.

I've only forgotten to flick the HID on once so I reckon this is a decent solution....at least for me. @tu*
 
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