DIY Spark plug change

[Orms]

Sorry if this has been here before but thought it a very good guide to changing your plugs and saving money,"without removing any body panels"
Hope this helps,even but a few.

http://www.superblackbird.com/spark1.cfm

 

[fat bert]

No matter which way~~

you try it [ooo err missus] still fiddly and takes the skin off your knuckles - assuming your already double-jointed !

 

[Orms]

FB
I allways get spanner rash what ever I do (ohh err!). Have learnt that patients and time does cut down on this rash though.
Have you seen the Bird on that site with the extra fuel tank. :}

 

[Firebird]

Im glad sombody has put this on at last as i have just finished doing them , and that is supposed to be the EASY WAY, well f**k me, you need rubber man for a father and an octopus mother to be able to get in to them, definately made for little nip fingers!

may try the hard way next time -just for fun:f :B ::

 

[DLN1965]

Big hands cause BIG problems

Hi

I too suffer from BIG hands....And struggled to put two headlight bulbs in...These orientals (This is not meant to be racist :k ) who designed these bike must have tiny hands
I took the skin off the knuckles on one hand Bugger it hurt :B
How is it possible to work on IF you have XXL hands like me ???

Cheers
Darren:beer:

 

[DB on CBR1100XX]

I did post my patent method in a prev post..........

..........but some fekker nicked it !! :B

There is a relatively easy way. It involves a fair bit of spannering but is much easier on the fingers.

Lift up the rear of the tank and disconnect the pump supply wire and the drain tubes. LEAVE the fuel pipe.

Put a blanket over the frame where you would sit [if you haven't taken the seat off by this stage - you ARE in trouble already !!]

Lift off the tank and stand it on it's arse in the frame on the blanket. I have done this with the tank 3/4 full with no loss but clearly it's better with less fuel just from a weight point of view.

Undo the airbox cover. Remove air filter. Remove the coils from the side of the air box. Remove the air trumpets on the throttle bodies. Disconnect the breather pipes underneath the airbox and remove the whole item.

Now you can remove the breather pipes and the flap valves on the rocker cover though AFAICR you can do the plugs with them on. Remove the ignition leads and coils; noting where they go !!

You now need a plug socket with a rubber insert to hold to the plug once loose 2" extension, a wobbly [universal joint] and a long ext to remove plugs comfortably.

Rebuild - If you have any bits left over - bin em :}

There ya go. No need to remove fairings or coolers etc etc. 'Tis also a good way of checking shims/clearances too. As you've got this far why not ??

The standing tank trick is also good for throttle body balancing too. Once you have connected your balancer tubes, you can reconnect the fuel pump supply and lay the tank back over while you do the run-up............

HTH

All the above applies to a FI 'bird I can't imagine there's any great difference for carbs.

 

[Orms]

Nice one

DB
Cheers mate, am going to change mine soon and all helps.
:beer:

 

[shropslad]

Just as easy to

Drain the tank and take the thing off, then its out of the way,, if you run the fuel down to the red light and a bit then all you need is a plastic gallon petrol can and a funnel.

Difference between the F1 and carbed is that the carbed one has a stop tap on the tank so you can take it off with fuel still in. Phook knows why they didn#t incorperate this in the F1 model,, something to wiv it being F1 I suppose:dunno:

 

[DB on CBR1100XX]

But Shrops,..........

................you're not supposed to disturb the HP fuel line unless you're going to replace the banjo washers. It really is no hardship sticking the tank on it's arse, honest !! :}

 

[cbr11xx]

Cheers DB on CBR1100XX - just finished doing mine (1 1/2 hours)... P'reg Crb'd with 14,300 miles (only had for a month) looks like the orginal plugs, and did need changing...

Now runs smoother and starts easier... Phew...