DATATOOL alarm removal

[fearg]

I removed the alarm from my bike today because it wouldn't dis-arm and I was fed up with it. It is a job I have never done before and was unsure on what it would involve. So I gave myself plenty of time stripped the bike down so I could get to everything, and it took me all of 10 mins

I was just told to trace the wires back from the alarm box etc, there was talk of soldering wires together. Nope none of that, 4 connectors behind the engine 4 in front of the dash and it was off how can that be a class 1 Thatcham approved alarm? Anyway the thing is fecked anyway so I'm glad it was easy.

Prob shouldn't be on a forum saying how easy it to remove an alarm and perhaps as this one is 8 years old they have got more secure.:dunno:

 

[karlos2000]

datatool alarm

I removed the alarm from my bike today because it wouldn't dis-arm and I was fed up with it. It is a job I have never done before and was unsure on what it would involve. So I gave myself plenty of time stripped the bike down so I could get to everything, and it took me all of 10 mins

I was just told to trace the wires back from the alarm box etc, there was talk of soldering wires together. Nope none of that, 4 connectors behind the engine 4 in front of the dash and it was off how can that be a class 1 Thatcham approved alarm? Anyway the thing is fecked anyway so I'm glad it was easy.

Prob shouldn't be on a forum saying how easy it to remove an alarm and perhaps as this one is 8 years old they have got more secure.:dunno:

mine has one of those key holes on the side, so I switched it off via that, then disconnected the wires and left it in situ .......... if it gets nicked, well, it has alarm fitted, errrmmm, nobody asked "is it activated...." ..... same story, mine started going off in the middle of the night for no reason, generally a regal PITA ....... I know I'm asking for trouble but what the hell, if it goes, it goes ......

 

[Centaur]

Down to the fitter I'd say Fearg

I removed the alarm from my bike today because it wouldn't dis-arm and I was fed up with it. It is a job I have never done before and was unsure on what it would involve. So I gave myself plenty of time stripped the bike down so I could get to everything, and it took me all of 10 mins

I was just told to trace the wires back from the alarm box etc, there was talk of soldering wires together. Nope none of that, 4 connectors behind the engine 4 in front of the dash and it was off how can that be a class 1 Thatcham approved alarm? Anyway the thing is fecked anyway so I'm glad it was easy.

Prob shouldn't be on a forum saying how easy it to remove an alarm and perhaps as this one is 8 years old they have got more secure.:dunno:

I took one off Bluey's bike and the critical bit where the immobiliser should actually break into the ignition circuit was wired up behind the ignition switch and........connected to itself! It sounds like your's was merely piggybacked onto existing wiring so it beeped etc but did not really protect feck all. I believe they are a waste of time generally as, imo, most nicked bikes are lifted into a van with or without the alarm squealing!

 

[fearg]

So if I was was wanting to immobilise my bike I was thinking about fitting a hidden switch somewhere isolating the fuel pump relay. Anyone got any better ideas for simple security and theft deterrents?

I don't want to carry heavy poxy chains, disc locks are just as much of a ball ache. I just want to stop some opportunist twat from nicking my bike by hot wiring. The organised thieves will have it regardless of any security.

If I was going to use a switch has anyone got any suggestions of a small weatherproof switch and where a good place would be to locate it on the bike?

 

[Jaws]

Fearg, I had forgotten all about the one on your bike !

The unit on that bike was one of a very few produced with plugs on as more or less development units.
The actual control board was replaced with a full blown 'Veto II+' fully programeable unit ( which has obviously now gone futt big time !! )

But normally they are hard wired, breaking in to at least 3 or 4 critical circuits.

Couple of things to consider.
Put a switch under the seat as you say but not an ordinary one
Use a reed switch and leave a magnet under the seat .. When you wanna get the bike rolling simply move the magnet to the side of the reed.. I am sure you could make up something to keep the magnet in proximity to the reed without too much issue.
And you could leave the magnet under there but away from the reed as no one is likely to put 1 and 1 together to come up with the correct answer !

And as a deterent, simply get a flashing red LED ( maplins do them ) and a 1k resistor.
Wire them ACROSS the ignition switch.
When the ignition is on the flashing stops.. when off, the LED will be able to use the normally dead side of the ignition switch as an earth while picking up the +ve feed from the live into the switch, and flash away merrily LOOKING like the bike is alarmed.

 

[fearg]

Great stuff, I'll look into that. Cheers John.

 

[Jaws]

Speeeelinj mistooks duly sorted out.. makes a bit more sense now !! :bang: