Boosting hot water flow to taps

[andyBeaker]

Yippee, a plumbing thread! Any advice welcome@tu*

The kitchen and utility room in my bungalow are some way away from the vented indirect hot water cylinder - while the flow of hot water to the taps is just about adequate is there a way it can be improved? Any thoughts of moving the cylinder can be disregarded for a number of reasons!

All I can find is this (which seems worrigly cheap) but there seems to be potential issues with mixer taps (both of the sinks have mixers) which I don't really understand........

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Nordstran...6?hash=item5d627bf3ae:g:YzgAAOSwMHdXRyaD#rwid

 

[andyBeaker]

Ps the cold to both taps is straight off the main...

 

[robsbird]

change the tank for an unvented cylinder and pipe it up right

faster reheat time and your also have much better performance from the hot than you do now

making Sure the PRV is fitting higher than the cylinder

@tu*

 

[andyBeaker]

Or maybe one of these?

http://plumbonline.net.au/grundfos-upa-15-90-n-160-stainless-steel-domestic-home-booster-240vpumps/

Either was I assume a Surrey flange would be the way to go??

 

[noobie]

Flange is such a beautiful word and greatly under used.

 

[andyBeaker]

change the tank for an unvented cylinder and pipe it up right

faster reheat time and your also have much better performance from the hot than you do now

making Sure the PRV is fitting higher than the cylinder

@tu*

Appreciate your thoughts@tu*

I was rather hoping for a simpler pump based solution. Overall not such a big issue that I want to go to the trouble and expense of replacing the cylinder, especially as it is less than two years old.

 

[DEG5Y]

Andy, you start a thread to ask our plumbers for advice, RB, who knowing the age range of this forum is a plumber of grrrrreat experience, tells you how to do it right and you totally ignore it to go down a route you've already decided is for you.
Your way could have negatives that would knarl you for the rest of your life. Power usage, noise, water hammer. At the moment you are going to have it running constantly as you've not mentioned any control!

On second thoughts you do it your way.

 

[ianrobbo1]

Plumbing question, I've a combi boiler that's about 6 years old, serviced regularly, and a power shower upstairs, when you turn the hot or cold on downstairs it affects the power shower IE turn on the cold downstairs it gets scalding upstairs,ETC and yes it's quite funny listening to the irritated shrieks as you turn hot and cold on and off downstairs, 8rfl@ however it has now taken to doing a similar trick on it's own, even with no one else in the house to do the tap turning, we live in a hard water area and I was wondering if the calcium build up may have anything to do with this as it's crept up on us over time!! and if so where should I look to get at and remove any built up deposits. :dunno:

BTW I not sorry for side tracking Andrews thread 8rfl@

 

[richardgore]

Andy,
Two options
(1) Fit a bronze secondary pump, as you have suggested. A Surrey flange isn't necessary if you can take a 15mm hws return pipe from the furthest point of the system back to the cold feed just where it enters the cylinder, so long as you put a double check valve (available from all good plumbers merchants), on the cold feed side so you can't get hot water flowing back up the cold feed pipe.
(2) Fit an electric hot water tap (not a boiling tap) powered by a local 13amp socket. Redring do them (TAP1) for around ?70. We've recently installed one in a job around 10 metres from the hws cylinder and it works perfectly.

Hope that helps

 

[Quiney]

Andy,
Two options
(1) Fit a bronze secondary pump, as you have suggested. A Surrey flange isn't necessary if you can take a 15mm hws return pipe from the furthest point of the system back to the cold feed just where it enters the cylinder, so long as you put a double check valve (available from all good plumbers merchants), on the cold feed side so you can't get hot water flowing back up the cold feed pipe.
(2) Fit an electric hot water tap (not a boiling tap) powered by a local 13amp socket. Redring do them (TAP1) for around ?70. We've recently installed one in a job around 10 metres from the hws cylinder and it works perfectly.

Hope that helps

Eek! option 2 involves electrickery.... 8rfl@

 

[Pugwash]

(2) Fit an electric hot water tap (not a boiling tap) powered by a local 13amp socket. Redring do them (TAP1) for around ?70.

Aha, solves a problem I have! PlumbNation sell them for about ?50 with ?5 delivery. :yo:

 

[The_Ormston]

Option 3: move house to one which has everything you want ready for you :dunno:

 

[robsbird]

Plumbing question, I've a combi boiler that's about 6 years old, serviced regularly, and a power shower upstairs, when you turn the hot or cold on downstairs it affects the power shower IE turn on the cold downstairs it gets scalding upstairs,ETC and yes it's quite funny listening to the irritated shrieks as you turn hot and cold on and off downstairs, 8rfl@ however it has now taken to doing a similar trick on it's own, even with no one else in the house to do the tap turning, we live in a hard water area and I was wondering if the calcium build up may have anything to do with this as it's crept up on us over time!! and if so where should I look to get at and remove any built up deposits. :dunno:

BTW I not sorry for side tracking Andrews thread 8rfl@

this will more than likely come back to being build up in the heat exchanger an it could be time for a new one or descaling them some times works , when this problem happens dose and of the pipe work on the heating side of the boiler get hot if this is the case it could be the diverter playing up.

 

[andyBeaker]

Andy, you start a thread to ask our plumbers for advice, RB, who knowing the age range of this forum is a plumber of grrrrreat experience, tells you how to do it right and you totally ignore it to go down a route you've already decided is for you.
Your way could have negatives that would knarl you for the rest of your life. Power usage, noise, water hammer. At the moment you are going to have it running constantly as you've not mentioned any control!

On second thoughts you do it your way.

Totally unnecessary.

I explained what I am looking to archive, got a good response which was thanked, went on to explain that I was hoping for a simpler solution which did not involve replacing the cylinder.

If you don't like that then so be it, but why post like that?

 

[sr71caspar]

Eek! option 2 involves electrickery.... 8rfl@

Electrickery+water+Andrew........

I await the widow, Mrs Andybirdless-less's post expressing her effusive gratitude to the advice on here.:-0)8rfl@

 

[andyBeaker]

Electrickery+water+Andrew........

I await the widow, Mrs Andybirdless-less's post expressing her effusive gratitude to the advice on here.:-0)8rfl@

And one from DEG5Y winding his neck in. Bet he doesn't reappear on this thread having been fronted up..........

 

[DLN1965]

Totally unnecessary.

I explained what I am looking to archive,

We seem to have gone off topic ... ???

Now you are archiving :dunno:

That would mean putting in storage paperwork and documents (is it still for 10 years)

Did you ACHIEVE what you were intending to do with your plumbing situation???

 

[andyBeaker]

We seem to have gone off topic ... ???

Now you are archiving :dunno:

That would mean putting in storage paperwork and documents (is it still for 10 years)

Did you ACHIEVE what you were intending to do with your plumbing situation???

You can wind your neck in as well!
:-0)

Ps there is a question mark missing from your post - at least I can blame the spell check for 'archiving'. What excuse have you got?

None.

THOUGHT SO.

 

[noobie]

I'd just get a proper plumber in rather than fanny about asking questions on a motorcycle forum 8rfl@

 

[andyBeaker]

I'd just get a proper plumber in rather than fanny about asking questions on a motorcycle forum 8rfl@

You get some good advice amongst all the drivel@tu*