Wiring heated grips to the Bird
Before you start -
Run the fuel tank as low as poss ( A full tank is HEAVY ! ),
Best to have the bike in the warm and dry, or if not access to a hairdryer would be good (I will explain later OK)
Check the grips and all the components are there in the packet.
12 and 10 mil ring spanner
Cross head screw driver
Sharp Stanley knife
Black cable ties (About 6" long)
File or Dremel multi-drill.
Fitting the grips to the bars
First job is to remove the bar weights then cut off the old grips from the bike, these should, like mine did (O2 Fi) practically fall off anyway. Make sure the bars cleaned of old glue, etc.
Next job (I learnt this from my mistakes) is to shorten the new grips a fraction, at the end furthest away from the wires which is raised a bit ( to stop hand sliding off bars) This has to be removed otherwise the grips are too long, and the bar weights will not go back on properly (esp so on the Throttle side).
Hold the grip(s) up to the bars and carefully mark what has got to be cut off.
Be VERY careful ! You do not want to cut too much off and cut into the wires in the grips !
Removing this with
the grips off the bike is far easier than trying to do it with the
grips glued in place.
Before fitting the grips on the bars, there is a small lip on the twist bit of the throttle (luckily plastic), in order for the grips to go on fully this lip will have to be filed/cut off, making sure no shards get into the handle bar Start/lights/kill switch box on the bars.
A small tube of glue comes with the Motrax grips, but nowadays most makes are supplied without ( simply not needed any more ) If you are supplied with glue, smear some of this on the bars and twist the new grips on. Make a note that the grips have different diameter holes and can only go on one side or the other of the bars. The throttle side has the larger diameter.
When putting the throttle grip on make sure it does not butt up tight to the Kill switch Box, or Vista Cruise if fitted. Allow a small gap to let the throttle work properly and not rub on the box.. On my bike I had the wires underneath the bars on the clutch side, and above the bars on the throttle side, the reason for this was because on the Clutch side it is an easy job to cable tie to the existing wiring coming from the bars, leaving no loose at all. On the throttle side I had the wires above the bars and cable tied to the brake lines (rightly or wrongly), I felt this to be the safer option as you have to leave some loose to allow for the throttle working.
This way I can easily see the wiring whereas under the bars I may miss it if it starts chafing on anything.
Make sure the throttle works properly, as in shutting off when you release it!!
The on/off switch I mounted on the top of the yoke. It could be mounted elsewhere but again I found this to be the easiest place for me to operate it from.
The switch comes with its own sticky pad, but before sticking it down, ensure the yoke is warm(ish) and clean.
Clean with alcohol or similar and let dry, unless your bike is in a nice warm garage, warm the yoke with a hairdryer it will help the sticky pad to stick better.
Run the wire down between the yoke and the fuel tank
Once this is done the grips can now be plugged into the switch wiring loom.
Wiring the grips to the bike.
Next job is to unbolt the fuel tank, unclip the two plastic panels either side of the tank (they don't have to be removed) and being very careful not to pull any pipes off the tank slide the tank sideways (To the offside of the bike) it may be best to get help at this stage, though the tank only need to move sideways about an inch ( I coped on my own ).
Plug the supplied loom onto the grip wires.
Run the wire down the nearside of the bike, between the plastic side panel and the air intake box (also black plastic).
At this point before cable tying anything, move the handlebars from side to side making sure no wire is being stretched or caught, then tidy up and cable tie as applicable, esp important is to make sure there is enough loose wire on the wire to allow for the turning of the bars.
We now have the 'grips' wire cable tied to the main wiring loom and heading to the rear of the bike and the battery compartment.
Beside the point where the tank is bolted on to the frame of the bike is a 10mil nut with wire (green) attached to it.
Unbolt this and fit the black wire to it and bolt it up again. This is the ground or earth wire.
Just behind the battery is a white connector.
It has a thin white/green tracer wire going into it.
The wire feeds the stop lights, and indicator relay and the pass light relay. It is fed via a 10Amp fuse so has more than enough spare amperage capacity to handle the grips.
It only becomes 'live' when the ignition is turned on.
Carefully check which side of the block the wire is (White with thin green stripe) and splice into the thicker black wire on the other side of the block, I used a Scotchlock for now. A better explanation of doing this (Including pictures) is Clive Johnson's excellent piece on fitting a GPS system, under Tech Concerns on the forum.
Replace the tank and bolt down, double check ALL the wiring is free
to move and is not catching/rubbing or being stretched when you move
the bars, twist the throttle etc, reconnect the battery and replace
seat. Start the bike and double check lights etc work as per normal.
Switch the grips on and make sure they work, they take a few minutes
to warm up, and away you go.
The grips were fitted to a 02 fuel injected Bird.
Some one has suggested that the grips could be wired in behind the clocks.
do not know, and having little knowledge of electric's I will leave
that for someone else to find out, I found the grips to be fairly
easy to fit, even having made a couple of mistakes, which I hope I
have highlighted, this coming from someone who the biggest job on a
bike so far has been to fit a Scottoiler to a CB500!
Hope this is of some help to you, if any one has any constructive criticism of the way I have done it then please feel free to say so, after all we can all learn something from each other.