• Welcome to the new B.I.R.D. Forum. Please be sure to read the "New Member / New Registered ? Please Read" thread in the Coffee Shop. This contains some important information. To become a full member ( £5.90 a year ) simply click on your user name near the top on the right I hope you enjoy the new site ................ Jaws ( John )

Try this!!

1200Pete

Registered User
I see a great number of Blackbirds come through my workshop, but I see very few that are actually set up for their riders.

When I sit on them and the rear brake pedal is up round my right ear, the gear lever is on the ground, the throttle has a mile of slack in it, you have to reach up to grab the levers!!

Why ride around your bike?? Every part that does not fit you, takes concentration and effort to use!

It will take you 5 Minutes with the basic tools under the seat to transform your bike.

TAKE THE TIME TO DO THIS!!!

Put the bike on the centre stand and sit on it (wear your riding boots) First off try the brake lever, it should really be in a straight line with your fore arm and wrist, as you extend your fingers the tips should just brush the lever, you should not have to reach up and over the lever. When this is set your throttle control should become a little easier. Do the same with the clutch lever.

Next take the slack out of the throttle cable 1-2mm is all you need, this will help greatly in slow speed manoeuvres and blipping the throttle on down shifting. You should find your gear changing becoming a lot smoother.

Next go for the rear brake, do you have to lift your foot? Does your foot try and dive under the peg? Adjust it so your foot is in line with the top of the pedal and slides on effortlessly when needed. This will stop you having to alter your body weight when reaching for the pedal, again upsetting the bike.

Same with the gear lever, if you are missing up shifts, bias the lever for a better throw upwards (but only buy 1 spline on the shaft) vies versa for down shifts. Try and get a fairly neutral position, again not having to reach to far.

Go try it; it could be the best 5 minutes work you ever done.
 

Bob Pinder

Registered User
Fantastic

silly me - thought everyone did this...............

do you offer a ride in ride out facility?
 
C

chuffmeister

Guest
:neenaw::neenaw:

what happens if ya aint refitted ya centre stand yet

:dunno::h




i know

:t:t












coat never came off, already left :f
 
C

cbr11xx

Guest
What a muppet I am... I used to spent ages adjusting the handlebars, brake/gear levers on my racing bicycle... Never thought of doing it on my Bird... Wow, just a few simple tweaks with the front brake lever and clutch lever - wrist-ache gone... Cheers Pete for pointing out the obvious...
 

Wolfie

Is a lunp
how do you adjust the brake pedal then???



there is not enough adjustment on the nut underneath the master cylinder
 
C

cbr11xx

Guest
Wolfie said:
how do you adjust the brake pedal then???

there is not enough adjustment on the nut underneath the master cylinder
I noticed that too.... Pete, Jaws... How?
 

ianrobbo1

good looking AND modest
Wolfie said:
how do you adjust the brake pedal then???



there is not enough adjustment on the nut underneath the master cylinder
wear "thicker" soles on yer boots!!! :rolleyes:
 

Wolfie

Is a lunp
eerrrrrrr.....the bottom of the thick soles would still be at the same height of the bottom of the thin soles, so therefore would still need to raise foot to use brake pedal. :rolleyes: :rolleyes:
 

ianrobbo1

good looking AND modest
Wilf said:
eerrrrrrr.....the bottom of the thick soles would still be at the same height of the bottom of the thin soles, so therefore would still need to raise foot to use brake pedal. :rolleyes: :rolleyes:
and how long did you have to think about that then Wilf??? :}
 

Wolfie

Is a lunp
errrrr.... time difference is two minutes and i can only type with one finger(beer in other hand) so not too long.
 

Allan

Registered User
1200Pete said:
Next take the slack out of the throttle cable 1-2mm is all you need, this will help greatly in slow speed manoeuvres and blipping the throttle on down shifting. You should find your gear changing becoming a lot smoother.
Pete, Honda engineer warned me about taking too much slack out as some is needed for when the bike is on full lock. Full lock shortens the cables and make the bike rev if there's not enough slack, so when you have taken the slack out, try it with full lock on see if the revs pick up, if they do you need to slack it off a bit.

Buzz
 
T

the all new REEFER

Guest
depending on which way you wanna adjust the rear brake....
upon fitiing the harley footpegs there was not enough adjustment to lower the pedal, removed the lock nut and wound the cylinder plunger all the way down)you need to cut a bit off the bottom of the bolt to do it) and hey presto pedal at right height, lock nut not needed as the cylinder plunger is now up againts the bracket where the lock nut used to sit
:beer:
 
T

the all new REEFER

Guest
there just to lower the footpeg postion without to much modding of the bike..dont look gay or anything:t
 
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