Stop'n'Go' pucture repair durability?

[Sled-driver]

Just ordered one of these to try after using sticky strings previously.

What is people's real world experience on the durability of the Stop'n'Go repair?

I'm seeing everything from "get a new tyre ASAP" to people who seem to ride and ride on them without a care.

Are they considered get-you-home repairs, or can I sensibly ride out the life of the tyre with these repairs?

Note that I tend to keep speed down on any compromised tyre. I'm not expecting to go nuts with a plug in a tyre - that seems to be just asking for trouble.

 

[Mikeyzf]

I got a puncture in a new rear Pirelli Angel on my Hayabusa.
I plugged it with my stop n go kit and left the plug in there till the tyre was done(about 6000 miles).I had no problems.

 

[Sled-driver]

I got a puncture in a new rear Pirelli Angel on my Hayabusa.
I plugged it with my stop n go kit and left the plug in there till the tyre was done(about 6000 miles).I had no problems.

Cool. Did you "maintain good progress" during this period? ;-) Or drive like a sissy?

 

[ScottyUK]

I thought you needed glue in these plugger kits but it doesn't seem to e included. Is that not the case?

I've always stuck with the strings as my concern with the others was that since you rely on glue and it magically disappears from the tubes, you could be caught out in a year or so's time with it not being there when you need it.

 

[KevXXW]

I've used Stop N Go's a number of times over the past few years, in both bike and car tyres. They use no glue, are easy and quick to use.

I ride and drive as I would normally do afterwards , and they have all lasted the life of the tyre without further issues, even the one which went into a fairly new tyre was still working 8,000 miles later when I changed the tyre @tu*.

 

[Sled-driver]

I thought you needed glue in these plugger kits but it doesn't seem to e included. Is that not the case?

I've always stuck with the strings as my concern with the others was that since you rely on glue and it magically disappears from the tubes, you could be caught out in a year or so's time with it not being there when you need it.

I just received my kit through the door and have read the instructions. It specifically says NO glue is to be used.

So now I'm wondering if they are impregnated with some vulcanising compound, or some other technology is in use with Stop'n'Go.

 

[Sled-driver]

I've used Stop N Go's ... They use no glue, are easy and quick to use.

I ride and drive as I would normally do afterwards... ...working 8,000 miles later when I changed the tyre @tu*.

Thanks for that. Good to know they are a robust solution, though I don't think I would be trying for mega speeds with such a repair in a tyre - just my opinion.

I've never had a sticky string let go, so hopefully these will offer similar service.

It's difficult to know whether the official information about durability is propoganda by the tyre manufacturers trying to sell more tyres, or whether they are just covering their arses by not trusting the repairs.

I've had four punctures in a year, three rear and one front, and all of them in new tyres, so I'm hoping to get at least a bit more life out of a tyre with these rapairs. I would always replace a front tyre ASAP, but the rears I think I can stay with a bit longer after a repair.

Strangely, I didn't have a single puncture in the first 32 years of my riding, and then 4 in a row, and I avoid the gutters and other messy bits of road. Sod's law.

I suppose the last thought on this is what is the failure mode of these repairs when they do fail - rapid deflation or seepage...? Who knows..?

Cheers

 

[Mikeyzf]

Cool. Did you "maintain good progress" during this period? ;-) Or drive like a sissy?

Oh yes.."Good progress" was made..Including a trip down to Espa?a.@tu*

 

[Centaur]

Now that is interesting, SD.

Thanks for that. Good to know they are a robust solution, though I don't think I would be trying for mega speeds with such a repair in a tyre - just my opinion.

I've never had a sticky string let go, so hopefully these will offer similar service.

It's difficult to know whether the official information about durability is propoganda by the tyre manufacturers trying to sell more tyres, or whether they are just covering their arses by not trusting the repairs.

I've had four punctures in a year, three rear and one front, and all of them in new tyres, so I'm hoping to get at least a bit more life out of a tyre with these rapairs. I would always replace a front tyre ASAP, but the rears I think I can stay with a bit longer after a repair.

Strangely, I didn't have a single puncture in the first 32 years of my riding, and then 4 in a row, and I avoid the gutters and other messy bits of road. Sod's law.

I suppose the last thought on this is what is the failure mode of these repairs when they do fail - rapid deflation or seepage...? Who knows..?

Cheers

In a lot of years biking I have had many, many punctures and a lot of blowouts too. Tyres in the 50s and 60s were nothing like the tyres of today. What is interesting to me is that rear tyre punctures/blowouts were much, much harder to cope with than front. A flat rear tyre will always try to put the bike down IMHO. I'm curious as to why you say you would always change repaired fronts asap. Is this experience or gut feeling? :-0)

 

[Sled-driver]

I'm curious as to why you say you would always change repaired fronts asap. Is this experience or gut feeling? :-0)

After 32 years of riding, I'm still learning, especially about coping with tyre deflations.

Thankfully I've never had a rapid deflation, and only one front deflation in all that time. That instance was only at 40mph and all I got was a gentle wiggle on the handlebars as I braked gently for the upcoming roundabout. It was still awkwardly rideable to the bike dealer just 100 yards ahead - lucky huh.

All my rear tyre deflations have not caused any handling issues, although I never had one at really high speed or while cranking it over. The quickest deflation I have had was when I got a bent piece of aluminium plate in a tyre - that went down pretty quick, and I didn't trust the repair due to the size and shape of the hole, so replaced the tyre almost immediately.

So I'm all ears and listening to what you say about rears causing the most problems. I suppose I've been lucky and just dont have enough samples of punctures to be able to assess the pattern of problems which may ensue.

Once a tyre has been compromised with a puncture repair, I tend to keep the speeds reasonable until the tyre is replaced.

Have others found the same - rear deflations cause more problems than front?

 

[Centaur]

Front deflation then I use the back brake only. It just feels a bit squirmy so long as the tyre is still on. If you want to risk your paintwork, when you are changing your tyres next then gradually let down your tyre pressure at each end to see the effect. One end at a time!8rfl@ I've done it on trail bikes and front has always been more manageable. IMHO.

 

[Sled-driver]

It's the main reason I plan to remove the linked braking on the Blackbird. I have no problem with it for general fast road riding, but it seriously limits your options if you get a flat tyre as you cannot choose to only brake at one end of the bike.

 

[slim63]

I only use proper vulcanised repairs & have never had a problem but have seen various other solutions fail over the years

I have had a very old front tyre on a hack of mine suddenly delaminate at high speed, that was very scary & involved trying out 3 lanes of the motorway & the hard shoulder before finally stopping