Dumb question: brake fluid

[tok78]

I shall be attempting to change my brake pads, clutch and brake fluid this weekend.

I have never done this before so wanted to ask a couple of questions:

1. Should I change pads or fluid first?
2. How much brake fluid do I need? (1 litre, 2?)
3. Manual says DOT 4, is the brand important?
4. Brake cleaner, is the brand important?

Is there a how-to on this site? (IXXRA seems to have gone down).

 

[CBRDEAN0]

I shall be attempting to change my brake pads, clutch and brake fluid this weekend.

I have never done this before so wanted to ask a couple of questions:

1. Should I change pads or fluid first?
2. How much brake fluid do I need? (1 litre, 2?)
3. Manual says DOT 4, is the brand important?
4. Brake cleaner, is the brand important?

Is there a how-to on this site? (IXXRA seems to have gone down).

1. I do pads first because the new pads will need to push the pistons back to fit. ( Just make sure you dont get any fluid on the discs or pads )
If you bleed first the fluid system is allready full and may not allow the pistons to move back.

2. I usually get away with 500ml

3. Not really - you can also use DOT 5.1 which is better and compatible.
( DO NOT use DOT 5.0 - this is silicone fluid and not compatible )

4. NO

5. Get some copper grease - helps to stop corrosion and squeeling.

EDIT - There is also a set sequence to bleeding the linked brakes

Front brake
Left upper bleed valve (as sat on the bike)
Right upper bleed valve

REAR BRAKE
right side front brake caliper centre bleed valve
left side front brake caliper centre bleed valve
rear brake caliper centre bleed valve
rear brake caliper outer (rear) bleed valve

And the job is much easier if you use a vacuum bleed tool

 

[andyBeaker]

I was going to do mine a few weeks back while changing the front pads and got some great advice from JAWS - don't bother unless there is a problem......@tu*

My front lever felt soft, hence my plan to change, but he was right - new pads and lever back to where it should be.

In other words....don't fix a problem if it doesn't exist. Especially on linked system that are notoriously fickle to bleed.

 

[tok78]

Andybird,

You are bang on with your advice, "if it ain't broke..."

Nonetheless, it has been a minimum of 4 years since the last brake fluid change.

I'll change the pads and 'take a view'.

I guess you are Kent based, fancy a ride out sometime?

 

[andyBeaker]

Andybird,

You are bang on with your advice, "if it ain't broke..."

Nonetheless, it has been a minimum of 4 years since the last brake fluid change.

I'll change the pads and 'take a view'.

I guess you are Kent based, fancy a ride out sometime?

My 03 probably has not had the brake fluid changed since Taffy put the HEL lines and delink kit on which must have been at least 6 years back. Brakes work just fine so...... if it ain't bust......

Appreciate the offer of a rideout, to be honest not my scene, just use the Bird for commuting during the week.

Paul7911 and COILS are both in Kent and seem to spend a lot of time charging around for pleasure.


Whereabouts are you out of interest??

 

[Centaur]

Agree with most of what has been said except...

It is very important to change the brake and clutch fluid every couple of years.

http://www.kwik-fit.com/brake-fluid.asp

One will only discover how important efficient brakes are when they are really needed and don't perform as well as they should. I remember a sheep running up the road ahead of me when only my extreme braking and it's running ahead kept us apart. One will not notice the deterioration until it is too late.

 

[gypsy]

It is very important to change the brake and clutch fluid every couple of years.

http://www.kwik-fit.com/brake-fluid.asp

One will only discover how important efficient brakes are when they are really needed and don't perform as well as they should. I remember a sheep running up the road ahead of me when only my extreme braking and it's running ahead kept us apart. One will not notice the deterioration until it is too late.

Another date got away Bill:-0)

 

[Centaur]

Twat.

Another date got away Bill:-0)

8rfl@8rfl@8rfl@

She kept blowing me kisses to keep me following!

 

[andyBeaker]

It is very important to change the brake and clutch fluid every couple of years.

http://www.kwik-fit.com/brake-fluid.asp

One will only discover how important efficient brakes are when they are really needed and don't perform as well as they should. I remember a sheep running up the road ahead of me when only my extreme braking and it's running ahead kept us apart. One will not notice the deterioration until it is too late.

One can still lock ones front and ones rear on 'old' fluid.

More than enough for one.

Forgive one for being cynical, but do Kwikfit do brake fluid changes in exchange for some of ones hard earned??

 

[Centaur]

One can still lock ones front and ones rear on 'old' fluid.
More than enough for one.

When brakes are cold yes but when really hot such as at a trackday?

Forgive one for being cynical, but do Kwikfit do brake fluid changes in exchange for some of ones hard earned??

Yes they do but the Kwik Fit article was only one of many on the subject one found on the internet.8rfl@

 

[57grant]

One last thing

Invest in a pot of castrol "red rubber grease" and use the correct thing to lubricate the rubbers that the sliding pins slide in

Grant

 

[stevie069]

just changed the clutch and brake fluid on my bb, brake fluid was like beer!!!! nut now with dot 5.1 wow the brakes are so much better wish i had done it months ago.
get yourself a vacum bleeder makes the job so easy

 

[Centaur]

Typo?

as BF is hygroscopic it degrades in time and the boiling point is reduced. The first time you will notice this is when you go to grab some brake AFTER a particular hard use of them and there is nothing there. The brake fluid moisture will not boil while it is under pressure and in use but as soon as the pressure is released, vapourisation occurs and the next application . . fuck all. That's why it is recommeneded to change fluid regularly. It is only when you REALLY REALLY need your brakes that the deficiencies show up, not in general use. Same for those with stainless brake rotor bolts. instead of titanium of the correct carbon steel grade.

I think you meant to type OR Lumps!

 

[andyBeaker]

Whatever.....

 

[tok78]

Whereabouts are you out of interest??

I'm in Blackheath, but spend a bit of time down in Broadstairs as well.

 

[andyBeaker]

I'm in Blackheath

Ah, a posh area. We should get on well.

 

[tok78]

Ah, a posh area. We should get on well.

There are plenty of wealthy bits, I don't know that I would consider them posh.

 

[the_sad_punk]

I guess you can still ride and corner hard on bald tyres but add in a wet surface and byeeeeee. The engine still runs on old engine oil too but what damage is it really doing. Your old crash hat looks perfectly good for it's 20 years age, so why bother changing it? Even that old fuel still starts and the biek runs, so what if it's a bit clattery Preventive maintenance is good.

Some epically poor advice in this thread. Thank christ for the voice of reason above.