• Welcome to the new B.I.R.D. Forum. Please be sure to read the "New Member / New Registered ? Please Read" thread in the Coffee Shop. This contains some important information. To become a full member ( £5.90 a year ) simply click on your user name near the top on the right I hope you enjoy the new site ................ Jaws ( John )

Dr Bike Heated Grips

C8R1100XX

Registered User
Hi Guys and Girls

I popped into J&S today just for a browse as you do and they had a pair of Dr Bike Heated Grips set up on show, and i thought they where good. They were only on low setting and quite hot. When i turned up to high, without my gloves on they were uncomfortably too hot. Having never had or even seen heated grips before i was quite impressed and are now thinking of getting a pair. Winter is after all on its way, and at only ?34.99 with a free neck tube i think its a great price as well.

has anybody on here any experiance of these grips and are they easy to fit?. i have seen the instructions on the B.I.R.D. web site about how to fit some grips but i believe that is for the Motrax type, it says they need to be cut down in size. Does this also apply to the Dr Bike ones as well.
 
B

Bluey

Guest
Sorry mate cant help you but with about having 4/5 sets of heated grips i have never had to cut them down but have used spacers between the bar and bar ends(washers will do)
good luck
 
G

Grapefruits

Guest
Bluey said:
Sorry mate cant help you but with about having 4/5 sets of heated grips i have never had to cut them down but have used spacers between the bar and bar ends(washers will do)
good luck
Doh.... that explains why my O/S bar end is loose its the simple things (me) that are easy to fix once you can see the real problem :bow:
 

C8R1100XX

Registered User
Dr Bike Heated Grips PART 1

Well I took the plunge and decided to purchase the DR BIKE heated grips, this is how I got on with them.

My main concern was, did I need to cut them down to fit? After opening them I compared them agaist the ones already fitted to my 04 Bird, they were about 11mm longer. Having then read the instructions it says that they can be cut to a Max 11mm without fear of cutting the heating element. As this was at the point of the maximum and not wanting to risk ruining them, I decided I would try and use some kind of spacers as mentioned by Bluey.

After removing the bar ends I set off to remove the old grips. I didn't want to cut these off just in case the new ones proved to be unsuitable so I just twisted them slowly and bit by bit they came off, it really was that easy. After cleaning any excess glue I fitted the new grips dry to check for fit and also the best position for the wires. I placed the wires underneath the bars for both sides, making sure that when clipped up they do not restrict the handle bar movment or the throttle.
22102008047.jpg


22102008048.jpg

Photo's showing the angle of the wires from the grips plus how I clipped them up

Once I was happy with the postions I placed a piece of masking tape on the switch boxes and marked their postion. This helps when being glued up to get them back in the right position before the glue sets.​

I then set off to make the spacers to fill the ends. I didn't have any washers, but I did have some 22mm copper pipe so I set off to cut two 11mm pieces.



22102008040.jpg

I fitted these in the end of the grips before the bar ends and it worked well. The clutch side was perfect, the throttle side left the end of the grip feeling a bit spongy as that grip is 25mm, but at least I could tighten the bar ends. I may well later on see if I can add something to make up the 3mm but I don't think there is much need (just me being fussy)

Before I removed the grips to be glued, I thought it wise to connect the electrics temporarily to check they work. It would be impossible to send them back if you find out they were faulty after they have been fitted. To connect the earth there is a 10mm bolt with a green wire attached just beside the tank securing bolts. (see red arrow)

221020080311.jpg

To connect the live wire locate a white connector behind the battery by the relays. It has a green/yellow & white/green wires coming from it. Locate the black wire at the other end of the connector that goes to the white/green wire and splice into it and solder the live wire onto this. (This wire is only live with ignition on).

221020080441.jpg

Start the engine and check every thing works as it should, if happy carry on with the installation.

To be continued.......
 

C8R1100XX

Registered User
Dr Bike Heated Grips PART 2

The next task was to locate the switch control. I didn't want it on the head stock so decided to place it on the little infill panel just inside the lower fairing on the nearside. At this point its out of the way and can still be reached while riding. And the way it has been done in my oppinion looks like its ment to be there.

To fit this first I had to remove the lower fairing panel complete with the infil panel attached. While working on a soft surface (I used the grass in my garden) turn the fairing panel upside down to locate the clips holding the infil on (4 clips and a screw).

Gently prize off the clips by using a screwdiver underneath.​

22102008041.jpg

Once removed I set off to make a template out of card for the cutout​

22102008032.jpg

Picture showing the cutout for the control panel

22102008033.jpg

Picture showing the panel fits in the card template

Then using the card as a template I scored round with a stanley knife.​



22102008034.jpg

Once scored I carefully cut along the lines with the knife making small slow cuts from the outside edge to the middle until eventually cut all the way through.​

22102008036.jpg

Picture showing part of ther cutout removed, only the half circle to go.

Once all has been removed and checking it fits I superglued along the two sides of the switch panel and around the button and fitted into the hole I have just made.​

22102008037.jpg

Now all is needed is to route the cables, glue the grips and put it all back together again. I had to extend the cables for the throttle grip as it was not long enough to reach where I had placed the control switch. The Clutch side reached just about.​

And heres the final pic​

22102008046.jpg

A little more work involved in fitting the control switch but I think it was worth it, as I said before in my opinion it looks like it was meant to be there. Let me know what you think​
 
B

Bluey

Guest
Good job especially the copper pipe all looks hunky dorie
 
A

Alan_Sheward

Guest
A little more work involved in fitting the control switch but I think it was worth it, as I said before in my opinion it looks like it was meant to be there. Let me know what you think


Hi there, I think the grips and the fitting look great, especially the cut-out for mounting the control. The key question now is, How do you like them in use? I suffer with Reynauds' - it doesn't take long for my most of my fingers to go numb and turn white (even when driving a warm car sometimes) - and I've been told that prevention is the best cure! So I need to keep my hands warm. Is this product going to do the trick AND still give me good grip on the ol' bars?

Cheers!8ree!
 

C8R1100XX

Registered User
The heated grips were great for the first season, kept my hands warmer than i had expected. I was able to wear my summer gloves all through the winter which was great as my winter gloves are so thick i can hardly move my fingers, which is not all that good.

Came to the next season and they didn't work, turned out to be water damage in the switch. managed to get it to work but only on full power all the time which to be honest was to hot. Plan to change them for another pair before the next winter but will make sure the new set is sealed well before use.

So yes would recommend them, but make sure they are waterproof and not just splashproof or find a better location for the switch panel.
 

DLN1965

Moderator
Staff member
Moderator
Club Sponsor
Excellent information about the looks and fitting here !:yo::yo::yo:

UPDATE on the price tho.... NOW J & S have them for ?24.99 delivered! see their webpage for details
It seems a bargain to me, Especially if you go to the J & S webpage... you can print off a 10% discount voucher for shop purchases (until 30/4/10) which makes them a very cheap ?22.50 brok3

Not 100% sure of the position of the switch idea tho :dunno:....I must be honest.... My Honda heated grip switch is similar shape and size and stuck to the yolk near to the left had bar mount... Its not failed yet ! (the grips did tho and I had them replaced8ree!)
 
A

Alan_Sheward

Guest
Thanks for the feedback. I bought the Dr.Bike grips, encouraged by the line "fits virtually all bikes" like the ads say for most of the grips I'd looked at. Then I found out that cruisers have 1" bars not 7/8" like everyone else. Oh well, back to square one! Maybe the manufacturers reckon that cruisers don't go out in cold weather; or maybe they think that if we can afford all that chrome 'bling' then we can afford to pay more for other accessories; whatever the reason, the 1" heated grips seem to be one heck of a lot more costly than the 7/8" variety! Unless anyone out there knows differently?..........
 
Last edited by a moderator:

Jaws

Corporal CockUp
Staff member
Moderator
Club Sponsor
Ok,,, I can supply you with what you want... They are ?38.35 plus post :p
 

DLN1965

Moderator
Staff member
Moderator
Club Sponsor
Not bad John
BUT J &S are ?24.95 INC postage
and if you live close to a shop it's a 10% discount voucher to print off on their webpage!

Tempted to buy a load and sell them at ?38. .... Plus postage !

I wonder who would do such a thing ?????
;-)
 
A

Alan_Sheward

Guest
Ok,,, I can supply you with what you want... They are ?38.35 plus post :p

Hi, Thanks for the offer! If they are for 1" / 25mm bars then could you please send me a picture or two and some technical details - and what the postage would be? Cheers! (alan_sheward@hotmail.com)
 
Top