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Blackbird Engine Oil

  • Thread starter peterabbit
  • Start date
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skippy

Guest
And for those that are thinking of using a "magic" additive....................
What about these aftermarket additives?


The whole basis of their claims is around a graphite or Teflon suspension in the oil, which acts as an additional lubricant. With graphite, think of a deck of cards. Place a load on top of the cards and it will support it. Place a side force to the load, and the pack or deck of cards will slide out. In other words, graphite can supposedly support vertical loading whilst allowing reduced friction. The main point where this applies is in the bearings in the crankshaft.


Other forms of solid lubrication include Molybdenum Disulphide and Teflon. In all these cases, it is a largish additive in the oil. To put it into perspective, the additive size is about 0.005mm. Your engines filter is approximately rated at 0.02mm in size. The filters will either remove much of these solid suspensions in your expensive oil or, the suspension will settle to the bottom of your sump.


In theory, this looks attractive, but in practice they have been known to clog oil ways and filters. Some of the claims look attractive, but I often see no supporting evidence. In fact several years ago the FCC in the US slapped Slick 50 with a $10 million fine for false advertising. They were unable to prove their performance claims of less wear and more reliable engine performance compared to motor oil alone. I regularly hear stories about how someone has driven 50 miles on a dry engine etc. but, personally, I have yet to have seen their evidence, (call me cynical!).


There have been many independent studies on Slick 50, the most noteworthy include the National Research Council in Canada and South ? Western Research Institute under the sponsorship of GM. None of these studies have found benefits and many have found drawbacks. Typical drawbacks reported in the literature and users include:

Settling and agglomeration of the solid additive particles

Filtration of the solid additive particles. (Some suppliers recommend not using a filter finer than 0.020 mm rating)

Restricted flow in oil ways and mechanical movement.

As with all aftermarket additives there are the usual problems such as:

Warranty of lubricant becomes void when aftermarket additives are mixed in, and some car companies will not honour the warranty, and believe me, if it came to court, it would be very easy to prove had been used.

Additive incompatibility with your existing oil. This of course relates to doping up with additive rather than buying a fully blended product.



Think again:t
 

ken oath

Registered User
ive emailed honda australia to get there opinion on using fully synthetic in the blackbird.will let you know what their reply is
 
S

skippy

Guest
Hope you have better luck with Honda Australia than I've had with the numpties at Honda UK, they haven't considered it important enough to reply to any of the three E-Mails I've sent on the issue :bang: :bang: :bang:
 
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frenchuk

Guest
Lumpy are you mad? Your answer is far too simple and to make sense in the BIRD parallel universe!:eek:
 
S

skippy

Guest
Re: OR

Originally posted by lumpy
You could use any oil that meets the specification that the manufacturers reccommend.

Strange concept though this may be.


Brilliant concept Mac I'll race out and buy a pair Dunplop D205s right now cos thats what the hanbook recommends :neenaw: :f :f
 
A

Aidey

Guest
So, to sum up then,

If you want to use mineral, use it.
If you want to use semi-synth, use it.
If you want to use fully synth, then use it!
 
F

frenchuk

Guest
Skippy, what a sensible reply to what waas a sensible post... Am I in the 6th dimension?

Mac, we all know it's the Avon 45/46:lol: !!!
Now for today: :cry: :B :mad: :B :cry: Yes I was supposed to... then couldn't sleep last night, until 5 I was tossing and turning, must have been the excitement to spend the day with Bob (in a totally non-sexual way I haste to add before the chutney brigade gets too excited) or whatever.... well anyway was not up for riding all day after having slept only 2 hours, so had to postpone, but hey, Bob booked his day for me so it's fair enough I pay him, so cost of sleepless night:
Bob's fee - waisting Bob's time - feeling like shite today...%$fan
 
S

skippy

Guest
Originally posted by frenchuk
Skippy, what a sensible reply to what waas a sensible post... Am I in the 6th dimension?




Hey Pierre your on the wrong forum if you want sensible:lol: :lol:


C'est oiseau que nous ne faisons pas sensible

or something like that:}
 
F

frenchuk

Guest
or something like that indeed... but what? :dunno:
 

Supabird1100

Registered User
Originally posted by frenchuk
or something like that indeed... but what?


He said..........."It is bird which we do not make sensitive" !!! :} :}


What's the matter Pierre ???.....I thought you spoke French !!!!:lol:
 

Supabird1100

Registered User
Originally posted by lumpy

Think of the money that you could save not changing the filters, not doing regular oil changes, not putting air in the tyres. Why not leave the tax and insurance off too, and bollocks to fitting new bulbs whent he old ones blow.


Oi Mac !!!!.....You've been peeking at my maintainence schedule, ain't ya ???:} :}
 

Wolfie

Is a lunp
dont clean it either, saves water and cleaner and polish and time .......opppsss:blush: :blush: :blush: :rolleyes:
 

Wolfie

Is a lunp
Mines dirtier than yers at the moment. I have brought half of the New Forest home on mine from yesterday. You would have thought with all that kin water it would have washed it off

nah m8 they have dirty rain down there , covers everything in shit.
 
C

CbrDavE

Guest
Look for these labels on the can?.

?MOTORCYCLE OIL?
If it doesn?t, it may have nasty stuff in it for cars that?s bad for bike wet clutches.

?SEMI SYNTHETIC?
Fully synthetic doesn?t let the rings bed in.

?10W/40?
Owt else will be the wrong viscosity.

?API SG?
The S in SG means its for spark ignition engines, Any higher grade than G may have things in it that?s bad for catalysts and wet clutch plates. Ignore the letters that start with C, that?s specification only for compression ignition engines, useful if you are thinking of dropping it into a diesel engine.

?JASO:MA?
Buy it! if it also says 10W/40 on the can and sleep easy at night, JASO specification was brought in by the Japanese to stop the confusion with motorcycle applications.
 
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