• Welcome to the new B.I.R.D. Forum. Please be sure to read the "New Member / New Registered ? Please Read" thread in the Coffee Shop. This contains some important information. To become a full member ( £5.90 a year ) simply click on your user name near the top on the right I hope you enjoy the new site ................ Jaws ( John )

syncronize FI

  • Thread starter Moonlight
  • Start date
M

Moonlight

Guest
Hi fellows,

anyone here who knows if there's any chance get a 99' FI in sync ? My dealer is saying there isn't any possibility but i can't believe that honda would build such shit.
If so, please give me an info about it. The needed stuff like syncmeter etc. is already here.

greets Moonlight
 
B

boz

Guest
I could be wrong, but I thought that the throttle bodies still need to be synchronized periodically on Fuel Injected systems (no just the 'Bird).
 
S

Snowdog

Guest
Moonlight as Boz has said they do indeed need synchronized periodically and your dealer should be aware of this.
 
M

Moonlight

Guest
thanks for your infos.
I called my dealer this evening but he said that the throttle bodies of the FI-bird couldn't be adjusted. If anyone can give me other informations i will do it myself. I already did syncronizing at a lot of carbs, but i can't see any screws at my bird from the outer side without taking the tank, airbox, etc. off. As you surely know, it is a lot of work, so i want to be sure before starting.

greets Moonlight
 
B

boz

Guest
Well, I stand corrected.

My shop manual just came in today (Honda, not after-market), and sure enough, there's warnings all over the place about not playing with any screws on the throttle bodies as they are pre-set at the factory and don't require adjusting.

So, I guess the dealer is right.

Cheers.
 
M

Moonlight

Guest
hi boz,

the preset from factory is usual i know otherwise the bird would run like a Yam... :)))
Would you take a look at your manual to see wether there are any screws like the carb-version for sync ?
I'd already attached the sync-meter some weeks ago because the connectors can be reached from the side - and indeed there are differences in reading. So if there are any screws between the bodies i think it could be done.
I distrust my dealer because a year ago he also told me the rpm's while coldstarting the bike can't be adjusted. My ran at about 4000, much too high for a cold engine - and his info was shit. The rpm's can of course be adjusted. I did it myself, now she's running at 2000 very fine.

greets Moonlight
 
B

boz

Guest
No problem -- I'll take a look this evening (I'm at the office right now).

Cheers.
 

DB on CBR1100XX

Official BASH referee !
Well the Haynes manual....

...........tells you how to do it. Complete bollox from the dealer I'm afraid. I did mine a couple of months ago using the fabulous carbtune with 6mm adaptors and yes, they needed doing. The adjusters are the little 5/6mm[cant remember] nuts on the throttle bar. If anyone wants help etc drop me a line - it's a pain but relatively easy: just a lot of work to accomplish a 5 min test/adjust

ps. tickover should be 1100 +/- 100
 
M

Moonlight

Guest
Hi Dave,

that's what it seemed to me. Most of the dealers don't know their business.

Would be nice to here how you managed it to get the engine running while the tank is lifted of. Other than the carb versions we have to connect the tank to get the fuel pump running. At my bike the fuel line is very short, so i don't have any good idea how to solve this.

greets Moonlight
 

DB on CBR1100XX

Official BASH referee !
Ahhh Assk the Masser..........

............and you will be wise !!!! :} [complete bollox I'm afraid but looks good !]

Right then. Standard tank trick [oh err Missus] No1 useful for all those under the bonnet jobs: you know air filter, pugs [forget all that radiator bollox etc] pugs? Plugs of course and THROTTLE BODY BALANCE Yippee!!!

Undo tank, remove the long thin breather tube from underside of tank unplug depth guage[fuel sensor] and pump electric supply [big fooker on underside of tank !] but NOT the fuel pipe......

....now before removing tank, put a blanket on the frame where your arse normally is. Remove tank and stand it on its end in the crux of the frame on the blanket. Make sure it's not too full only for the weight - it doesn't leak. Now you have full access to the top of the lump and the bodies. It's a bit of a pain fitting the vacumn adaptors - fiddly thats all. You also need to remove the airbox [though check this I'm doing this from memory] so as to remove and block the exhaust fume rebreather thingy and then put it back together for the run up.

Once you done all that and connected the carbtune you need to replace the airbox base and intake trumpets and just lay the tank back over so you can reconnect the pump electrics. Put some muslin over the intakes securely as a temporary air filter. Direct intake means exactly that and Messers Piston and Valve dont like intruders esp big 'ard ones. All temporary like. you then do your balance as per the haynes and adjust as req - takes about 5-10 mins then you've got to put it all back together

This is the quick guide - should be enough with carbtune info and haynes but if you want chapter and verse.................:}
 
M

Moonlight

Guest
Thanks a lot Massa Buana Dave,

that's indeed what i will try tomorrow. Will come back with the results - or with the bill for a new fuel pipe :} :}


greets Moonlight
 

DB on CBR1100XX

Official BASH referee !
PS.............I remember now !!!

......under the airbox on the top of the rocker cover are two breather hoses and flap valves..........pull the hoses off then seal up the flap valve housings on the rocker cover with placcie bag [cheap innit !!] and replace the hoses to keep the placcie there put back the air box as per last post etc etc

Amazing what you remember when pissed !!! :} :}

pps dont forget to remove it at the rebuild !!! :eek:
 
Last edited:
Top