New bike

[Boomer]

Morning all
I picked up my band new Bird on Saturday and already I love it to bits.
Obviously I'm still running it in at the moment, so far 200 miles. Its soooooo frustrating sat on a lovely stretch of dual carriagway having to stay below 5000 revs.
What are peoples views on running in the Bird.
In the owners manual it says take it easy for 300 miles. The shop I bought it from says stay below 5000 rpm for the first 500 miles then do an extra 1000 rpm for each 100 miles after that.

What did you lot do.

Cheers (Sonic) boomer

 

[fat bert]

Sounds about right~~

Boomer

The gentler you run her in - the better she'll serve you.

A little caution NOW will reap rewards later

About 1K revs per 100 miles is the norm

Welcome to the "club"

 

[Boomer]

Sod it.
I was rather hoping that you would say its fine to cane the bollocks off it now.:B

 

[Judge Dredd]

You could do

but why damage it. When you can wait just a little longer........ then cane the nuts off it when the weather is better :lick:

 

[richard]

Boomer WHAT COLOUR M8.... Nice one I just ride mine nornal like just dont labour the engine too mutch...




:} :} :}

Cheers
richard

 

[davet]

running in

just run my one in 5000rpm 500miles then opening her up in stages untill 1000miles

 

[AndyB]

running in

Get my new Bird in 11 days......:lick:

And she'll get like the VFR did.....the limiter from day one...If its gonna break i'd sooner it do it whilst under warranty......but it won't cus its a Honda...

Never did the VFR any harm

Andy B



:neenaw:

 

[Samster]

Well said AndyB..............whilst I'd not go as far as to advise banging ya bird off her limiter (ahem) straight away, I do believe that after a couple of hundred miles it doesn't matter as much these days.

Someone told me this once, may have been the Psyched one, can't remember:

"As long as she experiences a full variance of different engine temperatures and running times early in life she'll be alright - it's all about the expansion and contraction of the engine parts see - you've gotta ride her till she's at running temp then stop her for 1 minute then ride a bit more and stop her for 2 mins - then ride her back to normal running temp again then stop her for 5 mins - back up till she's ar normal then stop for 10 get it?"

At the end of the day from new you have a warranty so I say observe the above then let her off the leash and stretch her legs properly - the manual don't say don't.:yo: :yo:

 

[R2B2]

Run her in properly mate. There's no other way to do it.

It's all a matter of engineering. Tolerances have got better and better (closer, tighter) with CNC technology and measuring equipment and so on. (CNC machining would be used to hone the casting moulds for components that are cast, for example) So from this point of view modern engines are a lot more reliable and lasting. And, of course, lubricants have got a lot better too.

But you have to remember mating and contact surfaces take some time and action to become "work hardened" and to mirror each other and operate in harmony, with minimum interference and friction. Work two surfaces together that are not ready, at excessive speed, and the result is premature and uneven heat patterns (hot spots) that can change molecular structure on the surface. That's when your problems are just beginning because these two surfaces are then not "comfortable" with each other and, depending on the amount of deformation and damage, it can all get worse without you really trying too hard.

When you see a formula 1 engine let go, it all starts with excessive heat somewhere. Once the damage starts it's a chain reaction that results in total destruction of the engine, and at the revs they do, it happens in a 60th of a second!!

Ok, that example is taking things to the extreme, and a perspective needs to be applied. But the damage proccess is the same for our bike engines when you get down to the nitty gritty.

Now I'm not suggesting that your engine is going to blow up if you clock up an unintended extra 1000rpm whilst you glance at the car arriving at the T junction ahead!! But , horse the revs up repeatedly too early - and your asking for trouble!! Lots of it.

All the best mate...

 

[AndyB]

No offence RobPXX...not totally true these days!

I've been working in the motor engineering trade for best part of 20 Years and 10 years ago I would of agreed with you...
But times have changed somewhat...
Running in means parts are bedding in..bedding in means friction..(oowwer)...Modern Lubricants used in engines allow's hardly any friction to occur....We don't get the variation in temperature like we used to,in fact hardly anything.....
In my experience there are more problems with engines that don't get a little caning from time to time than those that are driven pretty hard from day one...Carbon deposits build up on parts like valve stems ect causing valves to stick....Most good high milagers are driven by the Reps out there...When was the last time you see a rep run an engine in......
I usually get 3 new motors a year and have never run any of them in and never had a problem in fact they generally go much better than a similar motor that has maybe been driven a little more carefully.
On the other hand the chances of me or anyone else keeping a Blackbird at the top end of the rev range for long it pretty unlikly...there just so dam fast...I stuggled on the VFR so don't surpose I have any chance on the Bird.

Andy B:bow: