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derek kelly

The Deli lama
Club Sponsor
After my heart scare on Monday & the Surgeon advising me to lose my gut I have decided to take his advice & buy a Mountain bike, (only to use in Countryside) I have looked at a few at Halfords & even some second hand ones, a local bike dealer rang me today to tell me he had one that would be ideal, he says it is a second hand orange (make, not colour) it is a hard tail with cable disc brakes & 21 speed shimano ez shift gears, he wants £160 for it, anybody know anything about Orange bikes as it is a make I’ve never heard of.
As I’ve said it is strictly for use off road.
 

andyBeaker

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After my heart scare on Monday & the Surgeon advising me to lose my gut I have decided to take his advice & buy a Mountain bike, (only to use in Countryside) I have looked at a few at Halfords & even some second hand ones, a local bike dealer rang me today to tell me he had one that would be ideal, he says it is a second hand orange (make, not colour) it is a hard tail with cable disc brakes & 21 speed shimano ez shift gears, he wants £160 for it, anybody know anything about Orange bikes as it is a make I’ve never heard of.
As I’ve said it is strictly for use off road.
Very good make Derek. Even budget shimano kit is very good, bit out of touch these days so I don't I know where EZ fits in the range.

Same things to look for as a motorbike......chain, sprockets and brakes. Much easier to change though.

Don't get too worked up about suspension - even the best on bikes isn't that great and while adding comfort tends to make them less efficient I.e. harder to pedal, especially on road. Front suspension is ok off road but preferably toward the harder end of the scale to give a bit of comfort without compromising efficiency. A good comfortable saddle and an appropriate size bike gives more benefit than any suspension.

Insist on a test ride, its bound to be a bit uncomfortable at first but you should get a good idea if it is for you. As a rule of thumb you should just about be able to touch the ground with your outstretched feet and comfortably be able to reach the bars when leaning forward slightly.

If you go for a new one the Boardman range exclusive to Halfords is really good, got two and both are excellent. After sales servicing is useless at Halfords in my experience.

Although you will hate it, a proper pair of cycling shorts is the best bit of kit you can get. Don't skimp on them, one really good pair is better than three cheap pairs. Personally I favour the bib style shorts, at least until I need a pee.

Cycling specific clothing makes a massive difference once you get into it.

Oh, and always carry a small tool kit and at least one spare inner tube - much easier to change a tube than repair a puncture......
 

derek kelly

The Deli lama
Club Sponsor
Strange that about just touching the floor, when I was a kid everybody insisted you needed feet flat on the floor.
Regarding the suspension I would never get a bike with rear suspension however Looking at where I’m going to be riding I’ll need front suspension, I was looking at hydrualic disc brakes but have read some bad reports on them, high rate of failing whereas the cable disc brakes tend to get a good review.
Boardman bikes are way more than I want to pay.
 

andyBeaker

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Strange that about just touching the floor, when I was a kid everybody insisted you needed feet flat on the floor.
Regarding the suspension I would never get a bike with rear suspension however Looking at where I’m going to be riding I’ll need front suspension, I was looking at hydrualic disc brakes but have read some bad reports on them, high rate of failing whereas the cable disc brakes tend to get a good review.
Boardman bikes are way more than I want to pay.
As a rule of thumb you want the legs to be almost straight at the bottom of the downstroke of the pedal. Many people ride with the middle of their feet on the pedals - puts unnecessary strain on knees/ankles as well as being mechanically inefficient- most are much better with the balls of their feet on the pedals. This also allows you to ride out of the saddle and pedal at the same time, essential off road. If you use pedals with cleats (or even old fashioned 'rat traps')- this is the position you will be locked into. Cleats are brilliant as not only do they put your feet in an efficient and comfortable position, they allow you to apply force on the upstroke as well as downstroke which is brilliant, especially on steep hills. However, nobody is the same....

There must be ten million barely used bikes gathering dust in sheds great bargains to be had!! Our local Age Concern warehouse always has a fair selection, as does the local council tip!!

No experience of hydraulic brakes - the brakes on my road bikes are more than capable of locking up without hydraulic assistance...so.......good old cables for me!
 

Stevebrooke

Knee up, wheel down
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Hydraulic fluid can boil and cause failure just like on a car or bike. Brake cable stretches and is less effective than hydraulic. The way you will be riding get hydraulic if it's in your budget.

The saddle is at the correct height if you set it up as follows: with the seat tube (the one with the saddle on it) and the pedal arms in a line sit on the saddle and place your heel on the pedal with your foot parallel with the floor. If your leg is comfortably straight the saddle is then at the correct height for you to pedal with the balls of your feet. DO NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES PEDAL ON YOUR ARCHES as it causes strain down your legs.

Try to get a fairly upright relaxed position and be aware that you may get numbness in your hands from trapping the nerve that runs down your wrist if you spend too long in the same position.

AVOID TWIST-GRIP GEARS AT ALL COSTS - much better to have thumb shifters.

Don't worry about the sore arse that you will get when you start riding as it will fade with regular exercise.

Always get the best you can afford - Boardman are excellent value new, even better s/h. Check eBay and search by distance.

If you want to know any more PM me and we can exchange phone numbers.
 

andyBeaker

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So why does Steve get a thanks and not me? More or less consistent advice across the posts?

Just wondering, like.
 

derek kelly

The Deli lama
Club Sponsor
So why does Steve get a thanks and not me? More or less consistent advice across the posts?

Just wondering, like.
My apologies, I wandered off to the bay of E to have a look, Boardman bike in Leeds for £100 but not a lot of info on it.
 

andyBeaker

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My apologies, I wandered off to the bay of E to have a look, Boardman bike in Leeds for £100 but not a lot of info on it.
If it's the one 'ridden twice' and is accurately described that is a steal at £100 bid so far........ if it is the right size. False economy if the wrong size, you'll never get comfortable on it.

Sling a leg over a few in Halfords and you will have a good idea what you need...especially if you tell the assistant you are thinking about buying...:rolleyes:
 

derek kelly

The Deli lama
Club Sponsor
If it's the one 'ridden twice' and is accurately described that is a steal at £100 bid so far........ if it is the right size. False economy if the wrong size, you'll never get comfortable on it.

Sling a leg over a few in Halfords and you will have a good idea what you need...especially if you tell the assistant you are thinking about buying...:rolleyes:
Already done that, looking about 18” frame.
 

Me!

Utterly retired
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Have you bought anything yet Derek.... I have an immaculate Boardman.... probably ridden 3 times!
 

Cougar377

Express elevator to hell
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Orange make superb mountain bikes which are popular with the more "enthusiastic" rider, but if it's second hand and so cheap then I'd be dubious - there's a good chance that it's been thrashed.
Boardman make very good quality bikes with top notch components. I've got a Boardman Hybrid and it's an ideal road and light trail bike. Halfords do Boardmans and their own Carrerra range are well specc'd and excellent value for money - I've got a Carrera Vulcan and it's plenty good enough for trail work.

Hydraulic brakes are a good plus but not essential as there are plenty of good quality mechanical brakes. As an ex downhill rider I've known hydraulic brakes to fade but for normal trail riding you'll never have to worry and they require far less maintenance than mechanical ones.

I would look for 24 or 27 gear bikes, you may find 21 gears are too widely spaced in certain ratios...especially if you're just starting out. Don't forget there is a certain overlap between front sprocket ratios, so a 21 gear bike with a 3 ring front sprocket and 7 sprockets on the rear cassette in reality is more likely to be the equivalent to a 15 to 18 gear one.

A hard-tail is all you need, full suspension is overkill for trail riding and not much fun on the road. Look for 120mm travel in the forks and if they have rebound/preload adjusters and a lockout option then even better.

As Stevebrook said, avoid twist grip geared bikes like the plague - you will always end up with false gear changes. Thumb/trigger shifters are far easier to use. There are two main types - Shimano ones are two levers with thumb push and trigger pull type for up/down changes, whereas SRAM favour two thumb push levers. I personally prefer Shimano's thumb and trigger type - SRAM's can be hard on the thumbs.

Most mountain bikes come with 26" wheels, but 29" and 700c (roughly about the same size) are becoming popular. Bigger wheels = faster speeds, generally speaking. And if you're 5' 10" + then you might want to consider them.
Go for tyre sizes (width) between 1.90 to about 2.4 - the narrow ones run faster but you lose out on some side grip. Wide tyres give better off road grip but require more effort in a like for like situation against the equivalent bike on narrower tyres (especially on the road) and are best for loose/muddy surfaces.
If you're doing a mix of trail and road then I'd go for trail/road hybrid tyres - 1.95 to 2.10 wide on 29" rims.

Most new moutainbikes come with saddles that the Spanish Inquisition would be proud of. The thinking is that you'll be out the saddle most of the time anyway. I always bin the supplied saddle for something a bit more padded, but as Stevebrooke said - you've got to break your arse into riding regularly, regardless of saddle. There's no way round this I'm afraid - it'll take a few days until you get used to it. Start on short rides and build up - but the most important thing is to do it regularly.

Whatever you get don't buy cheap e.g Raleigh or those shit Muddy Fox bikes that Sportdirect sell.

Something like this is great value for money:

https://www.halfords.com/cycling/bi...era-vulcan-mens-mountain-bike-16-18-20-frames
 
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ScottyUK

Filtering Through
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As a rule of thumb you want the legs to be almost straight at the bottom of the downstroke of the pedal.

True but with your heal on the pedal. Doing that with the ball of your foot on the pedal will mean the saddle is too low.

With regards touching the floor.... you set a bike up with regards the riding position and not the stopping/standing position. If you can't touch down then you just slide forwards off the saddle when stopping anyway.
 

Me!

Utterly retired
Club Sponsor
Not yet mate, got my eye on one on ebay & goingto look at a few this morning.

If you don’t have my luck ping me a PM. I have a ‘ridden twice’ boardman sat here ! It is ‘as new’.
 

Me!

Utterly retired
Club Sponsor
So why does Steve get a thanks and not me? More or less consistent advice across the posts?

Just wondering, like.
Because people like Steve and he doesn’t portray himself as Eddie Merckx.....
 
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