P
Para045
Guest
I was looking at doing this mod until I saw some peg lowering brackets that one of the guys was making on http://www.cbr1100xx.org so I got them and the difference is amazing. I will look at doing the Buells on the pillion set though for the missus :dunno: The outcome is basically the same except it retains the stock pegs which I like as the pegs still have the rubber on them :bow:
I have had this problem with my boots when I put the ball of my foot on the pegs and sit more upright ( I have VTech bars ), there are 2 melt marks on the outer rear of the heel, but then with size 14 boots that was always on the cardsTheoldgit1 said:Just wondering...I tend to ride distance with the balls of my feet on the pegs, old habit...Looking at your picture, what's the chance I would melt my Daytona's to the exhaust pipe with these lowered pegs? :dunno:
Oldbull said:Finally got my other peg... no probs fitting them as such but I have a small issue with the sidestand now hits the peg before its stop... will have a better look at it tomorrow and set the gear lever and brake pedal if it ever stops f*ggin raining..
anyone else have a prob with the sidestand ??
I did not want to cut and grind the sidestand so I just drilled a hole where the stand hits the stop and tapped it for a dome head screw :dunno: I also unbolted my sidestand and put a couple of big washers between the stand and the mount/frame on the front bolt to pivot the sidestand in towards the frame away from the end of the footpeg as I was worried that I may touch down the stand while cornering. I will look at making an aluminium wedge to replace the washers when I have time :dunno:Oldbull said:I cut the side stand pin off alltogether, you can still put the stand down in the normal way no probs..
If you look at the top of the stand you can see the spot where it hits the frame/stop.. I just put a blob of weld on it and gently filed it back untill it just cleared the peg .. I allso had to cut about 10mm off the rear brake adjuster shaft (threaded bar with saddle bracket on the end) to allow me to adjust the rear brake far enough..
all is good now and Im happy with the set up..
That is what I did to mine and it worked fine, I just had to adjust the brake light so that it did not stay on sh1tehppnsalp said:To obtain a lower rear brake pedal position I also found it necessary to remove about 6mm from the brake cylinder piston rod and reassembled the unit without fitting the lock nut. To gain access to the brake cylinder I removed the foot rest assembly and then removed the cylinder from the assembly. Once the piston rod was accessible I used an angle grinder to shorten the rod. I had a helper to hold the unit. I screwed the clevis as far up the thread as possible until tight before reassembling.